Himalayan Journals, vol 2 by J. D. Hooker (great reads TXT) 📖

Presents from Rajah -- Visits of Lama -- Of Singtam Soubah -- I am cross-questioned by Amlah -- Confined with Campbell --

Seizure of my Coolies -- Threats of attacking Dorjiling.

We started on the 3rd of November for Tumloong (or Sikkim Durbar),

Dr. Campbell sending Tchebu Lama forward with letters to announce his approach. A steep ascent, through large trees of _Rhododendron

arboreum,_ led over a sharp spur of mica-schist (strike north-west

and dip north-east), beyond which the whole bay-like valley of the

Ryott opened before us, presenting one of the most lovely and fertile landscapes in Sikkim. It is ten miles long, and three or four broad, flanked by lofty mountains, and its head girt by the beautiful snowy range of Chola, from which silvery rills descend through black

pine-woods, dividing innumerable converging cultivated spurs, and

uniting about 2000 feet below us, in a profound gorge. Everywhere

were scattered houses, purple crops of buckwheat, green fields of

young wheat, yellow millet, broad green plantains, and orange groves.

We crossed spur after spur, often under or over precipices about

fifteen hundred feet above the river, proceeding eastwards to the

village of Rangang, whence we caught sight of the Rajah's house.

It was an irregular low stone building of Tibetan architecture, with slanting walls and small windows high up under the broad thatched

roof, above which, in the middle, was a Chinese-looking square

copper-gilt canopy, with projecting eaves and bells at the corners, surmounted by a ball and square spire. On either gable of the roof

was a round-topped cylinder of gilded copper, something like a closed umbrella; this is a very frequent and characteristic Boodhist

ornament, and is represented in Turner's plate of the mausoleum of

Teshoo Lama ("Tibet" plate xi.); indeed the Rajah's canopy at

Tumloong is probably a copy of the upper part of the building there represented, having been built by architects from Teshoo Loombo.

It was surrounded by chaits, mendongs, poles with banners, and other religious erections; and though beautifully situated on a flat

terrace overlooking the valley, we were much disappointed with its

size and appearance.

On the brow of the hill behind was the large red goompa of the

Tupgain Lama, the late heir-apparent to the temporal and spiritual

authority in Sikkim; and near it a nunnery called Lagong, the lady

abbess of which is a daughter of the Rajah, who, with the assistance of sisters, keeps an enormous Mani, or praying-cylinder, revolving

perpetually to the prayer of "Om Mani Padmi hom." On this side was a similar spur, on which the gilded pinnacles and copper canopy of the Phadong* [Phadong means Royal, and this temple answers to a chapel

royal for the Rajah.] goompa gleamed through the trees. At a

considerable distance across the head of the valley was still a third goompa, that of Phenzong.

We were met by a large party of armed Lepchas, dressed in blue and

white striped kirtles, broad loose scarlet jackets; and the little

bamboo wattle hat lined with talc, and surmounted by a peacock's

feather; they escorted us to the village, and then retired.

We encamped a few hundred feet below the Rajah's house, and close by those of Meepo and the Tchebu Lama's family, who are among the oldest and most respectable of Tibetan origin in Sikkim. The population on this, the north side of the Ryott, consists principally of Sikkim

Bhoteeas and Tibetans, while the opposite is peopled by Lepchas.

Crowds came to see us, and many brought presents, with which we were overwhelmed; but we could not help remarking that our cordial

greetings were wholly from the older families attached to the Rajah, and from the Lamas; none proceeded from the Dewan's relatives or

friends, nor therefore any in the name of the Rajah himself, or of

the Sikkim government.

Tchebu Lama vainly used every endeavour to procure for us an audience with his highness; who was surrounded by his councillors, or Amlah, all of whom were adherents of the Dewan, who was in Tibet. My man

Meepo, and the Tchebu Lama; who were ordered to continue in official attendance upon us, shrugged their shoulders, but could suggest no

remedy. On the following morning Campbell was visited by many

parties, amongst whom were the Lama's family, and that of the late

Dewan (Ilam Sing), who implored us to send again to announce our

presence, and not to dismiss at once the moonshie and his office,*

[It is usual in India for Government officers when about to transact business, to travel with a staff (called office) of native

interpreters, clerks, etc., of whom the chief is commonly called

moonchie.] who had accompanied us for the purpose of a conference

with the Rajah. Their wishes were complied with, and we waited till noon before proceeding.

Illustration--TCHEBU LAMA.

A gay and animated scene was produced by the concourse of women,

dressed in their pretty striped and crossed cloaks, who brought

tokens of good-will. Amongst them Meepo's wife appeared conspicuous from the large necklaces* [The lumps of amber forming these (called "Poshea") were larger than the fist: they are procured in East Tibet, probably from Birmah.] and amulets, corals, and silver filagree work, with which her neck and shoulders were loaded: she wore on her head a red tiara ("Patuk") bedizened with seed pearls and large turquoises, and a gold fillet of filagree bosses united by a web of slender

chains; her long tails were elaborately plaited, and woven with

beads, and her cloak hooked in front by a chain of broad silver links studded with turquoises. White silk scarfs, the emblem of peace and friendship, were thrown over our hands by each party; and rice, eggs, fowls, kids, goats, and Murwa beer, poured in apace, to the great

delight of our servants.

We returned two visits of ceremony, one to Meepo's house, a poor

cottage, to which we carried presents of chintz dresses for his two little girls, who were busy teazing their hair with cylindrical

combs, formed of a single slender joint of bamboo slit all round

half-way up into innumerable teeth. Our other visit was paid to the Lama's family, who inhabited a large house not far from the Rajah's.

The lower story was an area enclosed by stone walls, into which the cattle, etc., were driven. An outside stone stair led to the upper

story, where we were received by the head of the family, accompanied by a great concourse of Lamas. He conducted us to a beautiful little oratory at one end of the building, fitted up like a square temple, and lighted with latticed windows, covered with brilliant and

tasteful paintings by Lhassan artists. The beams of the ceiling were supported by octagonal columns painted red, with broad capitals.

Everywhere the lotus, the mani, and the chirki (or wheel with three rays, emblematic of the Boodhist Trinity), were introduced; "Om Mani Padmi hom" in gilt letters, adorned the projecting end of every

beam;* [A mythical animal with a dog's head and blood-red spot over the forehead was not uncommon in this chapel, and is also seen in the Sikkim temples and throughout Tibet. Ermann, in his Siberian Travels, mentions it as occurring in the Khampa Lama's temple at Maimao chin; he conjectures it to have been the Cyclops of the Greeks, which

according to the Homeric myth had a mark on the forehead, instead of an eye. The glory surrounding the heads of Tibetan deities is also

alluded to by Ermann, who recognises in it the Nimbus of the

ancients, used to protect the heads of statues from the weather, and from being soiled by birds; and adds that the glory of the ancient

masters in painting was no doubt introduced into the Byzantine school from the Boodhists.] and the Chinese "cloud messenger," or winged

dragon, floated in azure and gold along the capitals and beams,

amongst scrolls and groups of flowers. At one end was a sitting

figure of Gorucknath in Lama robes, surrounded by a glory, with mitre and beads; the right hand holding the Dorje, and the forefinger

raised in prayer. Around was a good library of books. More presents were brought here, and tea served.

Illustration--CLASP OF A WOMAN'S CLOAK.

The route to Chola pass, which crosses the range of that name south of the Chola peak (17,320 feet) at the head of this valley, is across the Ryott, and then eastwards along a lofty ridge. Campbell started at noon, and I waited behind with Meepo, who wished me to see the

Rajah's dwelling, to which we therefore ascended; but, to my guide's chagrin, we were met and turned back by a scribe, or clerk, of the

Amlah. We were followed by a messenger, apologising and begging me to return; but I had already descended 1000 feet, and felt no

inclination to reascend the hill, especially as there did not appear to be anything worth seeing. Soon after I had overtaken Campbell, he was accosted by an excessively dirty fellow, who desired him to

return for a conference with the Amlah; this was of course declined, but, at the same time, Campbell expressed his readiness to receive

the Amlah at our halting place.

The Ryott flows in a very tropical gorge 2000 feet above the sea;

from the proximity of the snowy mountains, its temperature was only 64.3 degrees. Thence the ascent is very steep to Rungpo, where we

took up our quarters at a rest house at an height of 6008 feet.

This road is well kept, and hence onwards is traversed yearly by the Rajah on his way to his summer residence of Choombi, two marches

beyond the Cbola pass; whither he is taken to avoid the Sikkim rains, which are peculiarly disagreeable to Tibetans. Rungpo commands a most beautiful view northwards, across the valley, of the royal residence, temples, goompas, hamlets, and cultivation, scattered over spurs that emerge from the forest, studded below with tree-ferns and plantains, and backed by black pine-woods and snowy mountains. In the evening

the Amlah arrived to confer with Campbell; at first there was a

proposal of turning us out of the house, in which there was plenty of room besides, but as we declined to move, except by his Highness's

order, they put up in houses close by.

On the following morning they met us as we were departing for Chola pass, bringing large presents in the name of the Rajah, and excuses on their and his part for having paid us no respect at Tumloong,

saying, that it was not the custom to receive strangers till after

they had rested a day, that they were busy preparing a suitable

reception, etc.; this was all false, and contrary to etiquette, but there was no use in telling them so. Campbell spoke firmly and kindly to them, and pointed out their incivility and the unfriendly tone of their whole conduct. They then desired Campbell to wait and discuss business affairs with them; this was out of the question, and he

assured them that he was ever ready to do so with the Rajah, that he was now (as he had informed his Highness) on his way with me to the Chola and Yakla passes, and that we had, for want of coolies, left

some loads behind us, which, if they were really friendly, they would forward. This they did, and so we parted; they (contrary to

expectation) making no objection to Campbell's proceeding with me.

A long march up a very steep, narrow ridge took us by a good road to Laghep, a stone resting-house (alt. 10,475 feet) on a very narrow

flat. I had abundance of occupation in gathering rhododendron-seeds, of which I procured twenty-four kinds* [These occurred in the

following order in ascending, commencing at 6000 feet.--1. _R.

Dalhousiae_; 2. R. vaccinioides; 3. R. camelliaeflorwm; 4. _R.

arboreum. Above 8000 feet:--5. _R. argenteum; 6. R. Falconeri;

R. barbatum; 8.