The Physiology of Taste by Brillat Savarin (bearly read books txt) 📖
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order of their perfection, and fancying that those should be
examined which were internal as well as external, I began to
follow them out.
I found three, and almost four, when I fell again to earth.
1. Compassion is a sensation we feel about the heart when we see
another suffer.
2. Predilection is a feeling which attracts us not only to an
object, but to all connected with it.
3. Sympathy is the feeling which attracts two beings together.
From the first aspect, one might believe that these two sentiments
are one, and the same. They cannot, however, be confounded; for
predilection is not always reciprocal, while sympathy, must be.
While thinking of compassion, I was led to a deduction I think
very just, and which at another time I would have overlooked. It
is the theory on which all legislation is founded.
DO AS YOU WILL BE DONE BY.
Alteri ne facias, quod tibi fieri non vis.
Such is an idea of the state in which I was, and to enjoy it
again, I would willingly relinquish a month of my life.
In bed we sleep comfortably, in a horizontal position and with the
head warm: Thoughts and ideas come quickly and abundantly;
expressions follow, and as to write one has to get up, we take off
the night cap and go to the desk.
Things all at once seem to change. The examination becomes cold,
the thread of our ideas is broken; we are forced to look with
trouble, for what was found so easily, and we are often forced to
postpone study to another day.
All this is easily explained by the effect produced on the brain
by a change of position. The influence of the physic and moral is
here experienced.
Following out this observation, I have perhaps gone rather far,
but I have been induced to think that the excitability of oriental
nations, was, in a manner, due to the fact, that, in obedience to
the religion of Mahomet, they used to keep the head warm, for a
reason exactly contrary to that which induced all monastic
legislators to enjoin shaven crowns.
MEDITATION XX.
INFLUENCE OF DIET ON REST, SLEEP AND DREAMS.
WHETHER man sleeps, eats, or dreams, he is yet subject to the laws
of nutrition and to gastronomy.
Theory and experience, both admit that the quantity and quality of
food have a great influence on our repose, rest, and dreams.
EFFECTS OF DIET ON LABOR.
A man who is badly fed, cannot bear for a long time, the fatigues
of prolonged labor; his strength even abandons him, and to him
rest is only loss of power.
If his labor be mental, his ideas are crude and undecided.
Reflection contributes nothing to them, nor does judgment analyze
them. The brain exhausts itself in vain efforts and the actor
slumbers on the battlefield.
I always thought that the suppers of Auteuil and those of the
hotels of Rambouillet and Soissons, formed many of the authors of
the reign of Louis XIV. Geoffrey was not far wrong when he
characterised the authors of the latter part of the eighteenth
century as eau sucree. That was their habitual beverage.
According to these principles, I have examined the works of
certain well known authors said to have been poor and suffering,
and I never found any energy in, them, except when they were
stimulated by badly conceived envy.
On the eve of his departure for Boulogne, the Emperor Napoleon
fasted for thirty hours, both with his council and with the
various depositories of his power, without any refreshment other
than two very brief meals, and a few cups of coffee.
Brown, mentions an admiralty clerk, who, having lost his
memorandum, without which he could not carry on his duty, passed
fifty-two consecutive hours in preparing them again. Without due
regimen, he never could have borne the fatigue and sustained
himself as follows:—At first, he drank water, then wine, and
ultimately took opium.
I met one day a courier, whom I had known in the army, on his way
from Spain, whither he had been sent with a government dispatch.
(Correo ganando horas.)
He made the trip in twelve days, having halted only four hours in
Madrid, to drink a few glasses of wine, and to take some soup.
This was all the nourishment he took during this long series of
sleepless nights and fatigues. He said that more solid sustenance
would have made it impossible for him to continue his journey.
DREAMS.
Diet has no trifling influence on sleep and dreams.
A hungry man cannot sleep, for the pain he suffers keeps him
awake. If weakness or exhaustion overcome him, his slumber is
light, uneasy and broken.
A person, however, who has eaten too much, sinks at once to sleep.
If he dreams, he remembers nothing of it, for the nervous fluid
has been intercepted in the passages. He awakes quickly, and when
awake is very sensible of the pains of digestion.
We may then lay down, as a general rule, that coffee rejects
sleep. Custom weakens and even causes this inconvenience entirely
to disappear. Europeans, whenever they yield to it, always feel
its power. Some food, however, gently invites sleep; such as that
which contains milk, the whole family of letuces, etc., etc.
CONSEQUENCE.
Experience relying on a multitude of observations, has informed us
that diet has an influence on dreams.
In general, all stimullkt food excites dreams, such as flock game,
ducks, venison and hare.
This quality is recognised in asparagus, celery, truffles,
perfume, confectioneries and vanilla.
It would be a great mistake to think that we should banish from
our tables all somniferous articles. The dreams they produce are
in general agreeable, light, and prolong our existence even when
it is suspended.
There are persons to whom sleep is a life apart, and whose dreams
are serial, so that they end in one night a dream begun on the
night before. While asleep they distinguish faces they remember to
have seen, but which they never met with in the real world.
RESULT.
A person who reflects on his physical life and who does so
according to the principles we develop, is the one who prepares
sagaciously for rest, sleep and dreams.
He distributes his labor so that he never over-tasks himself, he
lightens it and refreshes himself by brief intervals of rest,
which relieve him, without interrupting its continuity, sometimes
a duty.
If longer rest is required during the day, he indulges in it only
in a sitting attitude; he refuses sleep unless he be forced
irresistibly to use it, and is careful not to make it habitual.
When night brings about the hour of repose, he retires to an airy
room, does not wrap himself up in curtains, which make him breathe
the same air again and again, and never closes the blinds so that
when he wakes he will meet with at least one ray of light.
He rests in a bed with the head slightly higher than the feet. His
pillow is of hair; his night cap of cloth and his breast
unincumbered by a mass of coverings; he is careful, however, to
keep his feet warm.
He eats with discretion, and never refuses good and excellent
cheer. He drinks prudently, even the best wine. At dessert he
talks of gallantry more than of politics, makes more madrigals
than epigrams. He takes his coffee, if it suits his constitution,
and afterwards swallows a spoonful of liquor, though it he only to
perfume his breath. He is, in all respects, a good guest, and yet
never exceeds the limits of discretion.
In this state, satisfied with himself and others, he lies down and
sinks to sleep. Mysterious dreams then give an agreeable life; he
sees those he loves, indulges in his favorite occupations, and
visits places which please him.
Then he feels his slumber gradually pass away, and does not regret
the time he has lost, because even in his sleep, he has enjoyed
unmixed pleasure and an activity without a particle of fatigue.
MEDITATION XXI.
OBESITY.
Were I a physician with a diploma, I would have written a whole
book on obesity; thus I would have acquired a domicil in the
domain of science, and would have had the double satisfaction of
having, as patients, persons who were perfectly well, and of being
besieged by the fairer portion of humanity. To have exactly fat
enough, not a bit too much, or too little, is the great study of
women of every rank and grade.
What I have not done, some other person will do, and if he be
learned and prudent, (and at the same time a good-fellow,) I
foretell that he will have wonderful success.
Exoriare aliquis nostris ex ossibus hoeres!
In the intereim, I intend to prepare the way for him. A chapter on
obesity is a necessary concomitant of a book which relates so
exclusively to eating.
Obesity is that state of greasy congestion in which without the
sufferer being sick, the limbs gradually increase in volume, and
lose their form and harmony.
One kind of obesity is restricted to the stomach, and I have never
observed it in women. Their fibres are generally softer, and when
attacked with obesity nothing is spared. I call this variety of
obesity GASTROPHORIA. Those attacked by it, I call GASTROPHOROUS.
I belong to this category, yet, though my stomach is rather
prominent, I have a round and well turned leg. My sinews are like
those of an Arab horse.
I always, however, looked on my stomach as a formidable enemy: I
gradually subdued it, but after a long contest. I am indebted for
all this to a strife of thirty years.
I will begin my treatise by an extract from a collection of more
than five hundred dialogues, which at various times I have had
with persons menaced with obesity.
AN OBESE.—What delicious bread! where do you get it?
I.—From Limet, in the Rue Richelieu, baker to their Royal
Highness, the Due d’Orleans, and the Prince de Conde. I took it
from him because he was my neighbour, and have kept to him because
he is the best bread maker in the world.
OBESE.—I will remember the address. I eat a great deal of bread,
and with such as this could do without any dinner.
OBESE No. 2.—What are you about? You are eating your soup, but
set aside the Carolina rice it contains! I.—Ah: that it is a
regimen I subject myself to.
OBESE.—It is a bad regimen. I am fond of rice pates and all such
things. Nothing is more nourishing.
AN IMMENSE OBESE.—Do me the favor to pass me the potatoes before
you. They go so fast that I fear I shall not be in time.
I.—There they are, sir.
OBESE.—But you will take some? There are enough for two, and
after us the deluge.
I.—Not I. I look on the potatoe as a great preservative against
famine; nothing, however, seems to me so pre-eminently fade.
OBESE.—That is a gastronomical heresy. Nothing is better than the
potatoe; I eat them in every way.
AN OBESE LADY.—Be pleased to send me the Soissons haricots I see
at the other end of the table.
I.—(Having obeyed the order, hummed in a low tone, the well known
air:)
“Les Soissonnais sont heureux, Les haricots font chez eux.”
OBESE.—Do not laugh: it is a real treasure for this country.
Paris gains immensely by it. I will
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