The Physiology of Taste by Brillat Savarin (bearly read books txt) 📖
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sat at the next table, and one of them advanced and said, “Sir,
they say your people excel in the art of making a salad. Will you
be kind enough to oblige us?”
After some hesitation d’Albignac consented, and having set
seriously to work, did his best.
While he was making his mixture, he replied frankly to questions
about his condition, and my friend owned, not without a little
blushing, that he received the aid of the English government, a
circumstance which doubtless induced one of the young men to slip
a ten pound bank bill into his hand.
He gave them his address, and not long after, was much surprised
to receive a letter inviting him to come to dress a salad at one
of the best houses in Grosvenor square.
D’Albignac began to see that he might draw considerable benefit
from it, and did not hesitate to accept the offer. He took with
him various preparations which he fancied would make his salad
perfect as possible.
He took more pains in this second effort, and succeeded better
than he had at first. On this occasion so large a sum was handed
to him that he could not with justice to himself refuse to accept
it.
The young men he met first, had exaggerated the salad he had
prepared for them, and the second entertainment was yet louder in
its praise. He became famous as “the fashionable salad-maker,” and
those who knew anything of satirical poetry remembered:
Desir do nonne est un feu pui devore,
Desir d’Anglaise est cent fois piri encore.
D’Albignac, like a man of sense, took advantage of the excitement,
and soon obtained a carriage, that he might travel more rapidly
from one part of the town to the other. He had in a mahogany case
all the ingredients he required.
Subsequently he had similar cases prepared and filled, which he
used to sell by the hundred.
Ultimately he made a fortune of 80,000 francs, which he took to
France when times became more peaceful.
When he had returned to France, he did not hurry to Paris, but
with laudable precaution, placed 60,000 francs in the funds, and
with the rest purchased a little estate, on which, for aught I
know, he now lives happily. His funded money paid him fifty per
cent.
These facts were imparted to me by a friend, who had known D
‘Albignac in London, and who had met him after his return.
VIII.
RECOLLECTIONS OF THE EMIGRATION.
THE WEAVER
In 1794, M. de Rostaing, my cousin and friend, now military
intendant at Lyons, a man of great talent and ability, and myself
were in Switzerland.
We went to Mondon, where I had many relations, and was kindly
received by the family of Troillet. I will never forget their
hospitality.
I was there shown a young French officer who was a weaver, and who
became one thus:—
This young man, a member of a very good family, was passing
through Mondon, to join Condes army, and chanced to meet an old
man with one of the animated heads usually attributed by painters
to the companions of the famous Tell.
At their dessert, the officer did not conceal his situation, and
received much sympathy from his new friend. The latter complained
that at such an age, he had now to renounce all that was pleasant,
and that every man should, as Jean Jacques, says, have some trade
to support themselves in adversity.
The conversation paused there; and a short time after, he joined
the army of Conde. From what he saw there, however, he saw he
never could expect to enter France in that way.
Then he remembered the words of the weaver; and finally making up
his mind, left the army, returned to Mondon, and begged the weaver
to receive him as an apprentice.
On the next day the officer set to work, dining and sleeping with
the weaver, and was so assiduous, that after six months, his
master told him, he had nothing to teach him, thought himself
repaid for the care he had bestowed, and that all he earned
henceforth was his own profit.
When I was at Mondon, the new artisan had earned money enough to
purchase a shop and a bed. He worked with great assiduity, and
such interest was taken in him, that some of the first houses of
the city enquired after him every day.
On Sunday, he wore his uniform, and resumed his social rights. As
he was very well read, all took pleasure in his company, and he
did not seem discontented with his fate.
THE STARVING.
To this picture of the advantage of industry, I am about to add an
altogether different one.
I met at Lausanne, an emigre from Lyons, who to avoid work used to
eat but twice a week. He would have died beyond a doubt, if a
merchant in the city had not promised to pay for his dinner every
Sunday, and Wednesday of the week.
The emigre came always at the appointed time, and always took away
a large piece of bread.
He had been living in this manner some three months, when I met
him; he had not been sick, but he was so pale that it was sad to
see him.
I was amazed that he would suffer such pain rather than work. I
asked him once to dine with me, but did not repeat the invitation
because I believe in obeying that divine precept, “By the sweat of
thy brow shalt thou earn thy bread.”
SOJOURN IN AMERICA.
From Switzerland I went to America.
*
ASPARAGUS.
Passing one day in February, by the Palais Royal, I paused before
the shop of Mme Chevet, the largest dealer in comestibles in
Paris, who always wished me well. Seeing a large box of asparagus,
the smallest of which was large as my finger, I asked the price.
“Forty francs,” said she. “They are very fine, but only a king or
prince could eat at such a rate.” “You are wrong sir,” said she,
“such things never go to palaces, but I will sell the asparagus.
“There are now in this city at least three hundred rich men,
capitalists and financiers, retained at home by gout, colds, and
doctors. They are always busy to ascertain what will revive them
and send their valets out on voyages of discovery. Some one of
them will remark this asparagus, and it will be bought. It may be,
some pretty woman will pass with her lover, and say, ‘what fine
asparagus. How well my servant dresses it.’ The lover then does
not hesitate, and I will tell you a secret, that dear things are
sold more easily than cheap ones.”
As she spoke two fat Englishmen passed us. They seemed struck at
once. One seized hold of the asparagus and without asking the
price paid for it, and as he walked away whistled “God save the
King.”
“Monsieur,” said Madame Chevet, “a thousand things like this
happen every day.”
FONDUE.
Fondue is a soup dish, and consists only in frying eggs in cheese
in proportions revealed by experience. I will give the recipe. It
is a pleasant dish, quickly made and easily prepared for
unexpected guests. I refer to it here only for my peculiar
pleasure, and because it preserves the memory of things which the
old men of Belley recollect.
Towards the end of the 17th century M. Madot became bishop of
Belley, and took possession of the diocese.
Those to whom his reception had been confided had provided an
entertainment worthy of the occasion, and made use of all the
preparations then known in the kitchen, to welcome my lord.
There was an immense fondue, to which the prelate paid great
attention; to the surprise of all he ate it with a spoon, instead
of a fork, as people had been used to do.
All the guests looked at each other with a perceptible smile on
every face. A bishop from Paris, however, must know how to eat. On
the next day there was a great deal of gossip, and people that met
at the corners, said “Well did you see how our bishop ate his
fondue? I heard from a person who was present that he used a
spoon!”
The bishop had some followers, innovators who preferred the spoon,
but the majority preferred the fork, and an old grand-uncle of
mine used to laugh as if he would die, as he told how M. de Madot
ate fondue with a spoon.
RECIPE FOR FONDUE, COPIED FROM THE PAPERS OF M. TROLLET, BAILLI OF
MONDON IN BERNE.
Calculate the number of eggs in proportion to the guests.
Take one-third of the weight of Gruyere and one-sixth of the
weight of butter.
Beat the eggs and mingle them with the butter and cheese in a
casserole.
Put the kettle on a hot fire and stir it until the mixture is
perfect. Put in more or less salt in proportion as the cheese is
old or new. Serve it hot, with good wine, of which one should
drink much. The feast will see sights.
DISAPPOINTMENT.
All one day was quiet at the Ecu de France, between Bourg and
Bresse, when the sound of wheels was heard, and a superb English
berline drove up, on the box of which were two pretty Abigails,
wrapped in blue and red cloths.
At the sight, which announced a nobleman on his travels, Chicot,
that was his name, hurried to the door of the equipage. The wife
stood at the door, the girls near by, while the boys from the
stable hurried forward satisfied that they would receive a
handsome gratuity.
The women were unpacked and there came from the berline, 1st, a
fat Englishman, 2d, two thin, pale, red-haired girls, and 3d, a
lady, apparently in the first stage of consumption.
The last spoke:
“Landlord,” said she, “take care of the horses, give us a room and
the women refreshments. All must cost only six francs; act
accordingly.”
Chicot put on his bonnet, madame went into the house, and the
girls to their garrets.
The horses were, however, put into the stable, the Englishman read
the papers, and the women had a pitcher of pure water. The ladies
went up stairs. The six francs were received as a poor
compensation for the trouble caused.
WONDERFUL EFFECTS OF A CLASSICAL DINNER.
“Alas! how much I am to be pitied,” said the elegiac voice of a
gastronomer of the royal court of the Seine. “Hoping to be soon
able to return home, I left my cook there; business detains me at
Paris, and I have to depend on an old women the preparations of
whom make me sick. Anything satisfies my wife and children, but I
am made a martyr of the spit and pot.”
Luckily a friend heard the complaint, who said, “You will not, my
friend, be a martyr. Deign to accept a classical dinner to-morrow,
and after a game of piquet we will bury all in the abyss of the
past.”
The invitation was accepted, the mystery was solved, and since the
23d June, 1825, the professor has been delighted at having one of
his best friends in royal court.
EFFECT AND DANGER OF STRONG DRINKS.
The artificial thirst we previously alluded to, is that which for
the moment appeals to strong drinks as a momentary relief. It
gradually becomes so habitual that those who grow
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