In Door Garedning by William Keane (surface ebook reader txt) 📖

abundance of air to the young stock in dungpits, and increase
the dryness of the atmosphere, to induce maturity of growth and a hardy constitution against
winter. Shift, if not already done, succession plants into larger pots. Any plants recently potted to
be shaded during bright sunshine, sprinkled overhead every afternoon, and the house closed
early. The sprinkling will be sufficient without watering at the root until the plants begin to grow.

VINERIES.—Continue to secure a dry state of the atmosphere when the ripe fruit is intended to
hang for any length of time, using a little fire heat when necessary to dispel damp. To ripen the
fruit in late vineries, it is frequently necessary to use fire heat, but more especially when the
external temperature ranges below 50°.

SEPTEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.


GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

BALSAMS.—Give them a good watering when they show indications of drooping; but be cautious
in watering when the least stagnation appears, as saturation will be death to them.

BULBS.—Pot Hyacinths and other such bulbs for forcing. When potted, to be placed in a dry,
cool situation, as advised in the early part of the month, and covered with some porous
material—such as coal ashes, old spent tanner’s bark, coarse sand, or any other material that will
serve to keep the roots not only cool and un-acted on by atmospheric changes, but which, from
being moderately damp, will not abstract moisture from the roots, but keep them uniformly and
evenly moistened. The Cape bulbs, if obtained now, may be had in flower at various periods
throughout the winter and early spring. Amaryllis Johnsoni, vittata, and many other varieties, are
splendid. Ornithogalum, both the white and orange-flowered species, the free-growing species of
Ixia, and the varieties of Sparaxis tricolor, are desirable plants that may be easily bloomed by
gentle forcing.

CALCEOLARIAS (Herbaceous).—Pot off seedlings into small pots, and keep them close in a frame
for some days. Put in cuttings of the best kinds; they will strike readily in a common frame.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—They should now be stopped for the last time, to produce a late succession
of bloom.

CLIMBERS.—Be careful to train the shoots, that the trellis or stakes may be furnished and clothed
with foliage and flowers from the rim of the pot upwards.

FUCHSIAS.—To have a late bloom, cut back about half of the young wood, trimming the plants to
handsome shapes. If placed or plunged in a little bottom heat they will break again, and continue
blooming till Christmas.

LILIUM LANCIFOLIUM.—Supply them cautiously with water, as advised for Balsams, and shade
the flowers from bright sunshine, to prolong their beauty. When they have done blooming, to be
removed to the foot of a south wall or fence to ripen their growth. Water to be given sparingly
until their tops show signs of decay, when they may be laid on their sides till potting time. The
same treatment is recommended for Gladioli and plants of like habit.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Some judgment will now be necessary to arrange the plants that are finishing or have completed
their season’s growth in the coolest part of the house, where they should be freely supplied with
air, and rather cautiously and sparingly with water. While others in free growth should be
encouraged with warmth and moisture by giving but very little air and a liberal supply of water
during very fine sunshiny weather.

FORCING-HOUSES.


When the fruit in the early houses is gathered, the great object should be to ripen the wood. A
certain degree of attention is necessary to be given by exposing them to light and air, and
preserving the leaves from injury, as it is upon their healthy action that the future crop depends.

CHERRIES.—Trees in tubs, or large pots, if intended for early forcing, to be removed to a cool,
and plunged in an open airy, situation, to continue the regular root action, upon which much of
their future success will depend.

FIGS.—Withhold water from the borders where the second crop of fruit is ripening. Trees in tubs,
or large pots, intended for early forcing, to be treated as advised for Cherries.

PEACHES.—If mildew attack the trees before the leaves have performed their necessary
functions, dust the affected shoots with sulphur. Trees in pots to be treated as recommended for
Cherries.

PINES.—Take advantage of fine weather to encourage free growth where it is desirable. Plants
swelling their fruit to be supplied occasionally with clear liquid manure. The succession plants to
be supplied with water at the roots, as inattention to that particular during hot weather is very
likely to cause some of the plants to fruit prematurely.

STRAWBERRIES.—The stock intended for forcing to be carefully attended to; to be kept free from
runners and weeds; and, when necessary, to be liberally watered. Free exposure to sun and air,
and a little weak liquid manure, will assist to produce stout healthy plants for forcing.

VINES.—When the fruit is ripe, give air freely, and keep the house as cool and dry as possible.
Stop laterals in the late houses, and expose the foliage to light, to make it as healthy and vigorous
as possible. Vines in pots to be treated as advised for Cherries.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

As boisterous winds, heavy rains, and other atmospheric changes occur about this time, it is
advisable to draft the choicest out-door greenhouse plants to their winter quarters. Each plant to
be carefully examined, dead leaves removed, and any defects in the soil or drainage of the pots to
be remedied. If worm-casts, or other indications of the presence of worms, appear on the surface
of the soil, by carefully turning the ball of soil out of the pot they can generally be picked out. If
they are not visible on the outside of the ball, a small peg stuck in will direct particular attention
to it until the intruder is removed. When staging the plants, a pleasing variety may be introduced
by placing a few on inverted pots. Sufficient space to be given to each plant to allow the air to
circulate freely around. If there is not sufficient room for all, the oldest or mis-shapen plants may
be rejected, or wintered in a pit or vinery. When housed, all the air possible should be given in
fine weather by the entire withdrawal of the lights, and only reducing the ventilation when
unfavourable changes in the weather take place.

HELIOTROPES.—Pay attention to keep them in a growing, healthy state for winter flowering.


MIGNONETTE.—Sow now and a month hence, for winter and spring blooming.

PINKS.—Pot Anne Boleyne and other sorts, to be well established before they are wanted for
forcing.

ROSES.—Some of the Tea-scented and China kinds, being placed under glass, and to be repotted
if requisite, will promote immediate growth and early blooming.

VIOLETS.—Take up with good balls, to be potted in rotten turf, or leaf mould and road-scrapings,
in 48 or 32-sized pots, placed in a pit or frame near the glass, for flowers in the winter and early
spring.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

As the season of active growth is now getting to a close, it is advisable to ripen off gradually the
pseudo-bulbs and strong healthy shoots by keeping up a genial atmosphere, ranging from 70° to
80°, with abundance of air in favourable weather. Cattleyas, Epidendrum Skinneri, Lælias,
Lycaste Skinneri, and Odontoglossum grande, to be kept rather cool, and to be slightly syringed
occasionally. Water to be given more sparingly to all the plants except such as are growing
freely. Shading to be now dispensed with as much as possible, that the plants may have the
benefit of the ripening influence of the sun.

FORCING-HOUSES.

FIGS.—Continue to pay strict attention to the state of the atmosphere. Where the fruit is still
swelling and ripening, slight fires will be useful in dull, cold weather, to assist in ripening the
fruit; and but little syringing and watering will be required from this time forward.

MELONS.—Take advantage of fine weather by giving plenty of air, shutting up early, and
keeping the shoots regularly thinned. In whatever structure they may be growing, it is advisable
to keep up the bottom heat by a gentle fire, or by linings.

PEACHES.—We will suppose the trees to be now fully exposed to the air night and day, and will,
therefore, require but little attention, except an occasional washing with the engine, to remove
insects and to allow the foliage to perform its functions to a natural decay. If a blank in the house
is to be filled up, it may be done as soon as the crop is gathered from the open wall; and the crop
to be expected from the same tree next season will depend upon the care with which it is
removed, as there will be sufficient time for the wood to be ripened and the tree to make fresh
roots, and to get sufficiently established before winter.

PINES.—Where young stock is grown in dung-pits, care to be taken by giving air freely in
favourable weather, to avoid growing the plants weakly in a close and warm temperature, and by
a sufficient command of heat from the linings to allow a little air to be given at night and on
cloudy days.


VINES.—All long growths, whether bearing or not, to be stopped, as it is getting too late for them
to be benefited by the foliage made after this period of the year. A gentle fire in damp weather is
useful to keep the atmosphere dry when the fruit is ripe. The bunches to be frequently and
carefully looked over and all tainted berries removed, and the foliage kept free from insects. Fire
heat is also necessary where the fruit is not yet ripe, and where the fruit is cut it is sometimes
necessary to keep the atmosphere dry and rather warm, to ripen the wood.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Finish housing the greenhouse plants, and give them as much air as possible; for if air is too
sparingly admitted at this season, when many of the plants have not finished their growth, it will
cause them to produce weak and tender shoots, which will be very liable to damp off at a more
advanced period when the inclemency of the external air will cause them to be kept close. Water
to be liberally supplied when they are first taken into the house, as the dry boards on which they
may stand, or the elevated situation and free circulation of air will occasion a more frequent want
of that element than when they stood on the moist earth. However, by no means go to the
extreme, but give it only when evidently necessary.

AZALEAS.—Plants that have set their blooms to be removed to the greenhouse; but the late kinds
to remain in heat until their growth is matured and the bloom set. If a few are required to bloom