In Door Garedning by William Keane (surface ebook reader txt) 📖

principal shoulders with soft strands of matting. Never
allow the head or hand to touch the berries. Give them plenty of air-moisture during their
swelling season; to be discontinued when they begin to colour. Shy-setting sorts—such as the
Black Damascus, Cannon Hall Muscat, &c.—will set better by thinning the blossom-buds before
expansion, by which a more regular and compact bunch will be produced. Late Vines should be
pruned and dressed; and if not frosty the lights to be removed, which will retard their breaking,
and benefit the trees.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.


During continued frosty weather fires must be kept up in these houses, and then particular
attention must be given to the New Holland plants, Heaths, and such like, which are impatient of
heat, that they do not suffer from want of water. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moistened at
least once a-week.

PITS AND FRAMES.

Amongst climbers, Calampelises, Coboeas, Lophospermums, Maurandyas, Rodochitons, and
Tropæolums, deserve attention at this time, increasing them by cuttings or by seeds. Some
annuals are also worthy of attention, such as Brachycomas, Phloxes, Portulaccas, Schizanthuses,
with others which may all be forwarded in heat. Whoever has not yet attended to the propagation
of plants for bedding out, should now begin, without further delay, to put in cuttings of Fuchsias,
Verbenas, Heliotropes, Petunias, Salvias, Scarlet Geraniums, &c., to have good plants in May
and June. All straggling and weak shoots to be topped back to form robust, bushy plants.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Some of the stove plants that have done blooming should be cut back, such as the Eranthemum
pulchellum, Euphorbia jacquiniæflora, Geissomeria longiflora, Gesnera lateritia, Justicias,
Linum trigynum, Poinsettia pulcherrima, and others. A bottom heat will be necessary when they
are repotted, which may be done in about three weeks or a month. Such of the most forward
plants, as they require shifting, to be attended to. The condition or fitness for this must, in a great
measure, be determined by the progress the shoots and roots have made.

FORCING-PIT.

Continue to introduce plants of Azaleas, Hyacinths, Heliotropes, Hydrangeas, Kalmias, Sedums,
Lilacs, Narcissus, Pelargoniums, Pinks, Rhododendrons, and Roses in varieties. A batch of last
year’s young Fuchsias, Erythrinas, and Salvia patens, to be shaken out, repotted, and placed in
bottom heat. Sow Balsams, Cockscombs, Globe Amaranths, &c.

FORCING-HOUSES.

CUCUMBERS.—Attend as previously advised to thinning and stopping, set the fruit blossom when
open, keep the inside of the frames watered with warm water, and apply some occasionally to the
roots. Water overhead on fine days, shutting up with 75° or 80° of heat.

CHERRIES.—They will be benefited by frequent syringings at all times except when in bloom.
Air to be given on all favourable occasions, shutting up with as much solar heat as possible.
Keep down the green fly and look well after caterpillars.

FIGS.—Maintain a kindly humidity, but do not syringe overhead, except on very fine days, as too
much moisture is apt to cause the fruit to drop off or to turn yellow.

PEACHES.—Tie in the forwardest shoots in the early-house as they advance; gradually disbud and
thin out all the shoots that are not wanted; thin the fruit but not too much at once, and, with water


of the temperature of the house, syringe the trees that have set their fruit. Remove large shoots
cautiously, and reserve, in tying and disbudding, merely sufficient wood for next spring.

PINES.—The atmospheric heat to be gradually increased in the fruiting-house, and the plants to
be frequently syringed, taking care that no water is allowed to lodge in the hearts of the plants.
The plants swelling their fruit to be watered occasionally with clean soot water, air to be
admitted on every favourable opportunity, but cold draughts to be avoided. A good heat to be
kept up in succession-pits worked with linings.

STRAWBERRIES.—To be placed near the glass with plenty of air, and in favourable weather to be
liberally supplied with warm manure water, and the surface of the pots to be frequently stirred.

VINES.—As soon as the first swelling is completed, and the stoning process commences, allow a
little more liberty to the laterals to induce a corresponding increase of root action. All shoots to
be properly trained up; but none to be allowed to touch the glass. All small bunches to be
removed when in flower. When the fruit is set, the heat by day may be allowed to rise from 70°
to 80°. See to the border coverings, if out-doors, as also border waterings, if in-doors. Be careful
when admitting air to the early Vines, to avoid cold currents and changes, for in the space of an
hour we have sometimes strong sunshine, sleet or snow, and cutting winds. Vines in pots to be
supplied with plenty of manure water in all stages of growth, but especially when swelling off
their fruit.

MARCH.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Frequent attention is now necessary in the giving and taking away of air as the alternations of
bright sunshine and clouds occur, and also to temper cold winds by the admission of air on the
south side. If severe weather has been now experienced, and extra fire heat used in consequence,
many plants that may appear all right may, nevertheless, be very dry, and if they are not
examined, and when very dry, well soaked with water, they will soon show unmistakeable signs
of approaching death.

AZALEAS (Indian).—Young plants that have commenced their growth to be repotted. Shift
Achimenes, Begonias, Gesneras, &c., and keep them in a warm, moist situation.

BULBS.—Pot Cape and other bulbs in a compost of loam, leaf mould, with a good sprinkling of
sand, as soon as they begin to make growth in foliage.

HEATHS.—Continue to shift as they may require, using sandy heath-soil full of fibres, with an
abundance of drainage. Be sure that the ball is thoroughly moist before shifting; for if perfectly
dry when that operation is performed the waterings afterwards given will pass freely through the
fresh soil without penetrating the old ball. Give them all the air possible, avoiding north or north-
east winds.


POTTING must be in progress, and include a good proportion of the occupants of these houses.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Push Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Stephanotises, &c., forward as briskly as possible; but be in no
hurry to train them, as freedom in growth is advantageous to a certain extent. Use all means to
check the increase of insects.

ORCHIDS.—The general collection to be favoured with a good steaming every clear morning for
about half an hour: this to be done by sprinkling the flues or pipes when warm. Plants in a
growing state to be slightly shaded, to prevent flagging from too copious a perspiration during a
sudden mid-day bright sunshine. Orchids are generally increased by passing a sharp knife
between the pseudo-bulbs (taking care to leave at least two or three undisturbed next the growing
shoots) so as to sever one or more of the dormant bulbs from the parent plant, which should
remain until it shows signs of growth, when it may be taken off and potted.

FORCING-HOUSES.

CHERRIES.—The syringe to be used freely except when in bloom, plenty of air to be given, and
the green fly kept down; shutting up with a little extra solar heat in the afternoons of bright days.

FIGS.—Abundance of syringing and good waterings with liquid manure may now be given them.
Sudden changes in their treatment will cause the fruit to drop, all the shoots when six or eight
inches long to be stopped to encourage the formation of a second crop.

MELONS.—Use strongish maiden loam by itself to grow them. See to the linings, attend well to
setting, and maintain an airy and dry atmosphere when in blossom. Keep the shoots at all times
thin.

PEACHES.—Frequent attention to be given in arranging the young shoots, disbudding and
thinning. A knowledge of the state of the border is necessary, whether retentive or porous, that
no serious errors may be made by withholding a sufficient supply of water, or by giving too
much. The temperature of the early house to be from 55° to 60° by night, ranging from 75° to
80° by sun heat, and allowing 65° by artificial heat, on dull days.

PINES.—A day temperature of 75° to 80° to be maintained during the progress of the fruit to
maturity, accompanied by atmospheric moisture. Succession plants to be supplied with a steady
moist heat, and to be carefully sustained after potting, to induce a healthy action of the roots.
Shading is sometimes necessary during bright sunshine.

VINES.—As the lower parts of the stems are generally close to the heating apparatus, it is
advisable to bind them up with moss or haybands, neatly clipped, as far as the parching heat
extends. The moss or haybands being damped morning and evening with the syringe, will keep
the bark and stems in a healthy state, and will frequently induce a mass of roots to be produced
there. That by watering occasionally with liquid manure will contribute to sustain the vigour of
the trees.


SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

As the boisterous gales and violent showers that frequently occur at this season, succeeded by
intervals of mild weather and brilliant sunshine, are frequently difficult to deal with, constant
attention is necessary that a free admission of air, when in a genial state, may be given, and the
cold, cutting east or north-east winds excluded. Frequent watering will also be necessary, and
fires to be dispensed with, or only used occasionally, merely to ward off the rigour of sharp
nights. The plants in good health, and well rooted, to receive a liberal shift. All plants when
shifted to be accommodated with a little extra heat and moisture in the atmosphere until they
begin to make fresh roots, when they will require to be more freely exposed, to produce a sturdy,
vigorous growth.

CAMELLIAS.—The plants that have finished flowering to be removed to a higher temperature,
where a moist atmosphere is kept up by frequent syringings.

CINERARIAS.—Tie out the principal shoots of the most forward, to form handsome plants.
Manure water of the temperature of the house to be given occasionally. The more backward to be
shifted into larger pots as they may require them, and all to receive plenty of air, light, and room.

FUCHSIAS.—They require to be accommodated with a warm, moist temperature, both at top and
bottom, and the free use of the syringe, to make them large pyramidal specimens.

PELARGONIUMS.—Attention to be paid to their training, to watering, and to the admission of air.
Shift on young plants, and stop all that may be wanted for late blooming.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Finish the shifting of all specimen plants in the stove as soon as possible. A brisk, growing, moist
temperature to be kept up during the day,