Down the Rhine; Or, Young America in Germany by Oliver Optic (life books to read .TXT) 📖

made some progress in establishing a friendship; but as it is not fair to listen to such conversations, it cannot be reported. The earl and his lady did not interfere, whatever they thought of the confidential relations which appeared to be gaining strength between the captain and their daughter, and they separated only when it was time to retire.

After breakfast the next morning, Professor Mapps had something to say about Cologne, and with the consent of Herr Deitzman, the landlord, it was said in the coffee-room.

"As many of you do not study German, you would not know what was meant by the name of the city if you saw it printed in that language," the professor began. "It is written Köln, with the umlaut, or diæresis, over the vowel, which gives it a sound similar to, but not the same as, the e in the word met. It is the third city of Prussia, Berlin and Breslau alone being larger, and has a population of one hundred and twenty thousand. On the opposite bank of the Rhine is Deutz, with which Cologne is connected by an iron bridge and by a bridge of boats. The former is a grand structure, and worthy of your attention.

"Cologne was originally a colony of Rome, from which comes its name. Portions of walls built by the Romans will be pointed out to you, and in the Museum are many relics of the same ancient origin. Agrippina, the mother of Nero, was born here, her father, the Emperor Germanicus, being a resident of Cologne at the time. Trajan was here when he was called to the throne. Clovis was declared king of the Franks at Cologne. In the fourteenth century it was the most flourishing city of Northern Europe, and one of the principal depots of the Hanseatic League, of which I spoke to you on a former occasion. It was called the Rome of the North, and many Italian customs, such as the carnival, are still retained in Cologne, though in no other city of this part of Europe. Several causes—the principal of which was the closing of the Rhine by the Dutch in the sixteenth century—nearly destroyed the commercial importance of the place; but the river was opened in 1837 and the city is now growing rapidly.

"One of the principal objects of interest in Cologne is the great cathedral, called in German the Domkirche. It is one of the largest churches in the world, and if completed on the original plan, it will rival St. Peter's at Rome. It is five hundred and eleven feet long by two hundred and thirty-one feet wide. The choir is one hundred and sixty-one feet high. It has two towers in process of erection, which will be five hundred feet high, if they are ever completed. It was commenced in the year 1248, and the work went on, with occasional interruptions, till about a hundred years ago, when it was suspended by war. Frederick William, King of Prussia, on his accession to the throne, caused the work to be resumed; and it required years of labor and vast sums of money to make the needed repairs, for the structure was a ruin even while it was unfinished. An association has been formed to insure its completion, and the present king, as well as his predecessor, has contributed large sums of money.

"As you came down the river, you saw the huge crane on the summit of one of the towers, used to hoist up stone and other materials. It has been there for hundreds of years. When it became insecure by years of decay it was taken down; but a tremendous thunder-storm, which occurred soon after, was interpreted by the superstitious citizens as a wrathful protest of the Deity at its removal, indicating that the people did not intend to complete the work, and it was repaired and restored to its original position. Not less than twenty years, with the utmost diligence, will be required to finish the building, and five millions of dollars is the estimated expense."

When the professor finished his lecture, the excursionists organized themselves into little parties to see the sights. As the unruly elements of the squadron were all in the Josephine, the students were permitted to go when and where they pleased. The Blankvilles and the Arbuckles, with Shuffles and Paul, hastened to the cathedral, as it was but a short distance from the hotel. Sir William was not in attendance, being engaged with Lord Elfinstone. Dr. Winstock, as usual, did much of the talking, being entirely familiar with all the localities and traditions of the city.

The Domhof, or square in which the cathedral stands, is partly filled with rude sheds, in which the stone for the building is hewn, and much of the space around the grand structure is covered with stone. Entering the church, the party walked to the middle of the choir. Its vast height, its lofty columns, its arches, chapels, and richly-colored windows filled them with awe and amazement. It was the most magnificent sight they had ever beheld, and with one consent they were silent as they gazed upon the architectural glories of the structure. They were interrupted very soon, however, by the appearance of an official in the livery of the church, who presented a salver for contributions for the completion of the building. The earl and Mr. Arbuckle each gave a napoleon, and other members of the party gave small sums. The gold won the heart of the official, and he was very polite.

Having observed the effect as a whole, the tourists proceeded to examine the church in detail. Behind the high altar is the shrine of the Three Kings of Cologne. They are represented as the Magi, who came from the east with presents for the infant Saviour. Their bodies are said to have been brought by the Empress Helena, mother of Constantine the Great, from the Holy Land to Constantinople, and then sent to Milan; and when this city was captured by the Emperor Frederick, he presented them to the Archbishop of Cologne, who placed them in the principal church. They have always been cherished with the greatest veneration; were enclosed in costly caskets, and adorned with gold and silver of immense value, though these have been mostly purloined, or otherwise appropriated. The skulls of the three kings are inscribed with their names, in rubies: Gaspar, Melchior, and Balthazar. Those who show the tomb of the Magi say its treasures are still worth a million of dollars; but people who go to see sights must see them.

Near the shrine is a slab in the pavement, beneath which is buried the heart of Marie de Medicis, wife of Henry IV., of France, her body having been sent to France. In various parts of the church are ancient and valuable paintings, in several of which the Magi are introduced. The story of the Three Kings is a cherished tradition in several of the cities of this part of Europe, and hotels and other public edifices have been named for them.

Passing out of the church, the party walked around it, in order to obtain a complete view of the exterior, whose grandeur can hardly be overrated, even by the enthusiast in architectural beauty. At a bookstore in the Domhof the party purchased some views of the cathedral.

"I suppose the ladies will want some cologne, if the gentlemen do not," said Dr. Winstock, with a smile.

"I want some," added Paul. "My mother will be delighted with a bottle of cologne from Cologne itself."

"The reputation of the article is world-wide, and I suppose many fortunes have been made in the trade. Farina was the original inventor, and there are not less than twenty-four establishments in this city which claim to be the rightful owners of the receipt for the pure article. I see that Murray and Fetridge both award to Jean Marie Farina the glory of being the right one."

"The original Jacobs," laughed Paul.

"Yes. His place is opposite the Jülich's Platz; and after we have been to the Churches of St. Cunibert and St. Ursula, we will call upon him. There is a cologne shop," added the surgeon, as he pointed to the opposite side of the Domhof. "I bought some there once, and I found it very good."

There are half a dozen churches in Cologne from six to eight hundred years old, and our party looked at them with interest. The church of St. Ursula and the Eleven Thousand Virgins presented to them a very remarkable display. The saint went from Brittany to Rome with her virgin band. On their return by way of the Rhine, they were all massacred at Cologne by the savage Huns. The remains of the saint and her companions have been gathered together, and enshrined in this church. The bones are buried under the pavement, displayed in the walls, or exhibited in glass cases. St. Ursula herself lies in a coffin, and near her are the skulls of some of her preferred companions. The chains of St. Peter, and one of the clay vessels which held the wine of Cana, are also exhibited.

Before dinner time, the party reached the Jülich's Platz, where the original cologne shop is located. A blast of the vapor of the fragrant water was blown in each of their faces by the aid of a machine made for the purpose, and each one bought a supply of the genuine article.

In the afternoon the same party visited the house in the Sternengasse, in which Rubens was born and Marie de Medicis died. There were objects of interest enough in the city to occupy the attention of the excursionists till night.

"Do you find Cologne a very dirty city?" said the doctor, as they were returning to the hotel.

"Rather so in the old market-place," replied Mr. Arbuckle. "As a whole, I don't think it is any dirtier than most of the cities of Europe."

"That is just my view. I find that all the guidebooks and all the works of travel insist upon inserting and indorsing Coleridge's lines on the subject."

"What are the lines?" asked Paul.

Dr. Winstock took his guide-book and read,—