Anecdotes of Painters, Engravers, Sculptors and Architects and Curiosities of Art (Vol. 3 of 3) by S. Spooner (best ebook reader under 100 TXT) 📖
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three buildings. From the summit of the middle one, the spectator has a
splendid view of one of the most remarkable regions in the world--the
Campagna, up to the mountains. For a description of the Colosseum, see
vol ii, page 29, of this work.
MODERN ROME.
Modern Rome is about thirteen miles in circuit, and is divided by the
Tiber into two parts. In 1830, Rome contained 144,542 inhabitants,
35,900 houses, 346 churches, 30 monasteries, and upwards of 120 palaces.
The view of the majestic ruins; the solemn grandeur of the churches and
palaces; the recollections of the past; the religious customs; the magic
and almost melancholy tranquillity which pervades the city; the
enjoyment of the endless treasures of art--all conspire to raise the
mind of the traveler to a high state of excitement. The churches,
palaces, villas, squares, streets, fountains, aqueducts, antiquities,
ruins--in short, everything proclaims the ancient majesty and the
present greatness of Rome. Almost every church, palace, and villa is a
treasury of art. Among the churches, St. Peter's is the most
conspicuous, and is, perhaps, the most beautiful building in the world.
Bramante began it; Sangallo and Peruzzi succeeded him; but Michael
Angelo, who erected its immense dome, which is four hundred and fifty
feet high to the top of the cross, designed the greatest part. Many
other architects were often employed upon it; Maderno finished the front
and the two towers. The erection of this edifice, from 1506 to 1614,
cost 45,000,000 Roman crowns. Before we arrive at this grand temple, the
eye is attracted by the beautiful square in front of it, surrounded by a
magnificent colonnade by Bernini, and ornamented by an Egyptian obelisk,
together with two splendid fountains. Upon entering the vestibule,
Giotto's mosaic, la Navicella, is seen. Under the portico, opposite the
great door, is Bernini's great bas relief representing Christ commanding
Peter to feed his sheep; and at the ends of the portico are the
equestrian statues of Constantine by Bernini, and of Charlemagne by
Cornachini. The union of these masterpieces has an indescribable effect.
The harmony and proportion which prevail in the interior of this august
temple are such, that, immense as it is, the eye distinguishes all the
parts without confusion or difficulty. When each object is minutely
examined, we are astonished at its magnitude, so much more considerable
than appears at first sight. The immense canopy of the high altar,
supported by four bronze pillars of 120 feet in height, particularly
attracts the attention. The dome is the boldest work of modern
architecture. The cross thereon is 450 feet above the pavement. The
lantern affords the most beautiful prospect of the city and the
surrounding country. The splendid mosaics, tombs, paintings, frescos,
works in marble, gilded bronze and stucco, the new sacristy--a beautiful
piece of architecture, but not in unison with the rest--deserve separate
consideration. The two most beautiful churches in Rome next to St.
Peter's are the St. John's of the Lateran, and the Santa Maria Maggiore.
The former, built by Constantine the Great, is the parochial church of
the pope; it therefore takes precedence of all others, and is called
_Omnium urbis el orbis ecclesiarum mater et caput_ (the head and mother
of all churches of the city and the world). In it is celebrated the
coronation of the popes. It contains several pillars of granite, _verde
antico_, and gilt bronze; the twelve apostles by Rusconi and Legros; and
the beautiful chapel of Corsini, which is unequalled in its proportions,
built by Alexander Galilei. The altar-piece is a mosaic from a painting
by Guido, and the beautiful porphyry sarcophagus, which is under the
statue of Clement XII., was found in the Pantheon, and is supposed to
have contained the ashes of M. Agrippa. The nave of the church of Santa
Maria Maggiore is supported by forty Ionic pillars of Grecian marble,
which were taken from a temple of Juno Lucina: the ceiling was gilded
with the first gold brought from Peru. We are here struck with
admiration at the mosaics; the high altar, consisting of an antique
porphyry sarcophagus; the chapel of Sixtus V., built from the designs of
Fontana, and richly ornamented; the chapel of Paul V., adorned with
marble and precious stones; the chapel of Sforza, by Michael Angelo; and
the sepulchres of Guglielmo della Porta and Algardi. In the square
before the front is a Corinthian column, which is considered a
masterpiece of its kind. The largest church in Rome next to St. Peter's
was the Basilica di San Paolo fuori delle Mura, on the road to Ostia,
burnt a few years since. The church of S. Lorenzo, without the city,
possesses some rare monuments of antiquity. The church of San Pietro in
Vincola contains the celebrated statue of Moses, by Michael Angelo. The
church of St. Agnes, in the place Navona, begun by Rainaldi and
completed by Borromini, is one of the most highly ornamented,
particularly with modern sculpture. Here is the admirable relief of
Algardi, representing St. Agnes deprived of her clothes, and covered
only with her hair. The Basilica of St. Sebastian, before the Porta
Capena, contains the statue of the dying saint, by Giorgetti, a pupil of
Algardi, and the master of Bernini. Under these churches are the
catacombs, which formerly served as places of burial. In the church of
St. Agnes, before the Porta Pia, among many other beautiful columns are
four of porphyry, belonging to the high altar, and considered the most
beautiful in Rome. In a small chapel is a bust of the Savior by Michael
Angelo--a masterpiece. In the church of St. Augustine, there is a
picture by Raphael representing the prophet Isaiah, and an Ascension by
Lanfranco. The monastery has a rich library, called the Angelica, and
increased by the library of cardinal Passionei. The following churches
also deserve to be mentioned, on account of their architecture and works
of art; the churches of St. Ignatius, St. Cecilia, S. Andrea della
Valle, S. Andrea del Noviziato, the Pantheon (also called la Rotonda),
in which Raffaelle, Annibale Caracci, Mengs, etc., are interred. All the
364 churches of Rome contain monuments of art or antiquity. Among the
palaces, the principal is the Vatican, an immense pile, in which the
most valuable monuments of antiquity, and the works of the greatest
modern masters are preserved. Here are the museum Pio-Clementinum,
established by Clement XIV., and enlarged by Pius VI., and the
celebrated library of the Vatican. The treasures carried away by the
French have been restored. Among the paintings of this palace, the most
beautiful are Raffaelle's frescos in the _stanze_ and _loggie_. The
principal oil paintings are in the _appartamento_ Borgia, which also
contains the Transfiguration, by Raphael. In the Sistine chapel is the
Last Judgment by Michael Angelo. The popes have chosen the palace of
Monte Cavallo, or the Quirinal palace, with its extensive and beautiful
gardens, for their usual residence, on account of its healthy air and
fine prospect. The Lateran palace, which Sixtus V. had rebuilt by
Fontana, was changed, in 1693, into an alms-house. Besides these, the
following are celebrated: the palace della Cancellario, the palace de'
Conservatori, the palace of St. Mark, the buildings of the Academy, etc.
Among the private palaces, the Barberini is the largest; it was built by
Bernini, in a beautiful style. Here are the Magdalen of Guido, one of
the finest works of Caravaggio, the Paintings of the great hall, a
masterpiece of Pietro da Cortona, and other valuable paintings. Of works
of sculpture, the Sleeping Fawn, now in Munich, was formerly here; the
masterly group representing Atalanta and Meleager, a Juno, a sick Satyr
by Bernini, the bust of Cardinal Barberini by the same artist, and the
busts of Marius, Sylla, and Scipio Africanus, are in this palace. The
library is calculated to contain 60,000 printed books, and 9000
manuscripts; a cabinet of medals, bronzes, and precious stones, is also
connected with the library. The Borghese palace, erected by Bramante, is
extensive, and in a beautiful style; the colonnade of the court is
splendid. This palace contains a large collection of paintings, rare
works of sculpture, valuable tables, and utensils of rich workmanship,
of red porphyry, alabaster, and other materials. The upper hall is
unrivalled; the great landscapes of Vernet, with which it is adorned,
are so true to nature, that, upon entering, one imagines himself
transported into real scenes. The palace Albani, the situation of which
is remarkably fine, possesses a valuable library, a great number of
paintings, and a collection of designs by Caracci, Polidoro, Lanfranco,
Spagnoletto, Cignani, and others. The palace Altieri, one of the largest
in Rome, is in a simple style of architecture, and contains rare
manuscripts, medals, paintings, etc., and valuable furniture. In the
palace Colonna there is a rich collection of paintings by the first
masters; all the rooms are decorated with them, and particularly the
gallery, which is one of the finest in Europe. In the gardens are the
ruins of the baths of Constantine and those of the temple of Sol. The
Aldobrandini palace contains the proudest monument of ancient
painting--the Aldobrandine Wedding, a fresco purchased by Pius VII., in
1818, in which the design is admirable. The great Farnese palace, begun
from the designs of Sangallo, and completed under the direction of
Michael Angelo, is celebrated both for its beauty and its treasures of
art. The Caracci and Domenichino have immortalized themselves by their
frescos in its gallery. The Farnese Hercules, the masterly Flora, and
the urn of Cæcilia Metella, formerly adorned the court; and in the
palace itself was the beautiful group of the Farnese bull. But when the
king of Naples inherited the Farnese estate, these statues, with other
works of art, were carried to Naples, where they now adorn the palace
degli Studi. Not far off is the palace Corsini, where queen Christina
lived and died in 1689. It contains a valuable library and gallery. The
palace Giustiniani also had a gallery adorned with numerous valuable
statues and works of sculpture; its principal ornaments were the
celebrated statue of Minerva, the finest of that goddess now known, and
the bas-relief of Amalthæa suckling Jupiter. These treasures were
nominally bought by Napoleon, and are now in Paris. The paintings are
chiefly in the possession of the king of Prussia. In the palace Spada is
the statue of Pompey, at the foot of which Cæsar fell under the daggers
of his murderers. We have yet to mention the palace Costaguti, on
account of its fine frescos; Chigi, for its beautiful architecture, its
paintings and library; Mattei, for its numerous statues, reliefs, and
ancient inscriptions; the palace of Pamfili, built by Borromini, for its
splendid paintings and internal magnificence; that of Pamfili in the
square of Navona, with a library and gallery; Rospigliosi, upon the
Quirinal hill, etc. Among the palaces of Rome, which bear the name of
_villas_, is the Villa Medici, on the Pincian mount, on which were
formerly situated the splendid gardens of Lucullus: it once contained a
vast number of masterpieces of every kind; but the grand dukes Leopold
and Ferdinand have removed the finest works (among them, the group of
Niobe, by Scopas) to Florence. This palace, however, is yet worthy of
being visited. Under the portico of the Villa Negroni are the two fine
statues of Sylla and Marius, seated on the _sella curulis_. In the
extensive garden, which is three miles in circuit, some beautiful fresco
paintings have been found in the ruins of some of the houses. The Villa
Mattei, on the Coelian mount, contains a splendid collection of
statues. The Villa Ludovisi, on the Pincian mount, not far from the
ruins of the circus and the gardens of Sallust, is one and a half miles
in circuit, and contains valuable monuments of art, particularly the
Aurora of Guercino, an ancient group of the senator Papirius and his
mother (or rather of Phædra and Hippolytus), another of Arria and Pætus,
and Bernini's rape of Proserpine. The Villa Borghese, near Rome, has a
fine but an unhealthy situation. The greatest part of the city, and the
environs as far as Frascati and Tivoli, are visible from it. It has a
garden, with a park three miles in circuit. This palace was ornamented
in its interior, and furnished with so much richness and elegance, that
it might have been considered the first edifice in Rome, next to the
capitol, particularly for its fine collection of statues. The most
remarkable among them were the Fighting Gladiator; Silenus and a Faun;
Seneca, in black marble, or rather a slave at the baths; Camillus; the
Hermaphrodite; the Centaur and Cupid; two Fauns, playing on the flute;
Ceres; an Egyptian; a statue of the younger Nero; the busts of Lucius
Verus, Alexander, Faustina and Verus; various relievos, among which was
one representing Curtius; an urn, on which was represented the festival
of Bacchus; another supported by the Graces; two horns of plenty, etc.
The greatest part of these has not been restored from Paris. The
exterior is ornamented with ancient
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