The Art of Perfumery by George William Septimus Piesse (comprehension books TXT) 📖

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Author: George William Septimus Piesse
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align="left">} from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, } " cassie, } " violette, } Extract of cedar, 1/4 " Extract of vanilla, } " ambergris, } of each, 2 oz. " musk, } Otto of almonds, } " neroli, } of each, 10 drops. " cloves, } " bergamot, 1 oz.

These ingredients are to remain together for at least a fortnight, then filtered prior to sale.

Millefleurs et Lavender

Essence of lavender (Mitcham), 1/2 pint. Eau des millefleurs, 1 " Decroix's Milleflower Lavender.

Spirits from grape, 1 pint. French otto of lavender, 1 oz. Extract of ambergris, 2 oz.

The original "lavender aux millefleurs" is that of Delcroix; its peculiar odor is due to the French otto of lavender, which, although some folks like it, is very inferior to the English otto of lavender; hence the formula first given is far superior to that by the inventor, and has almost superseded the original preparations.

There are several other compounds or bouquets of which lavender is the leading ingredient, and from which they take their name, such as lavender and ambergris, lavender and musk, lavender and maréchale, &c., all of which are composed of fine spirituous essences of lavender, with about 15 per cent. of any of the other ingredients.

Bouquet du Marechale.

Esprit de rose triple, } of each, 1 pint. Extrait de fleur d'orange, } " vitivert, } " vanilla, } " orris, } of each, 1/2 " " tonquin, } Esprit de neroli, } Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, } of each, 1/2 drachm. " santal, } Eau de Mousselaine.

Bouquet maréchale, 1 pint. Extrait de cassie, } " jasmine, } from pomade, of each, 1/2 " " tubereuse, } " rose, } Otto of santal, 2 drachms. Bouquet de Montpellier.

Extrait de tubereuse, 1 pint. " rose de pomade, 1 " " rose triple, 1 " Extract of musk, } of each, 1/4 " " ambergris, } Otto of cloves, 1-1/2 drachm. " bergarmot, 1/2 oz. Caprice de la Mode.

Extrait de jasmine, } " tubereuse, } of each, 1/2 pint. " cassie, } " fleur d'orange, } Otto of almonds, 10 drops. " nutmegs, 10 " Extract of civet, 1/4 pint. May Flowers.

Extract of rose (de pomade), } " jasmine, } of each, 1/2 pint. " fleur d'orange, } " cassie, } " vanilla, 1 " Otto of almonds, 1/4 drachm. Neptune, or Naval Nosegay.

Extrait de rose, triple, } " santal, } of each, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, } " patchouly, } " verbena, 1/8 " Bouquet of all Nations.

Countries wherein the Odors are produced.

Turkey, Esprit de rose triple, 1/2 pint. Africa, Extract of jasmine, 1/2 " England, " lavender, 1/4 " France, " tubereuse, 1/2 " South America, " vanilla, 1/4 " Timor, " santal, 1/4 " Italy, " violet, 1 " Hindoostan, " patchouly, 1/4 " Ceylon, Otto of citronella, 1 drachm. Sardinia, " lemons, 1/4 oz. Tonquin, Extract of musk, 1/4 pint. Isle of Wight Bouquet.

Extract of orris, 1/2 pint. " vitivert, 1/4 " " santal, 1 " " rose, 1/2 " Bouquet du Roi.

Extract of jasmine, } " violet, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. " rose } " vanilla, } of each, 1/4 pint. " vitivert, } " musk, } of each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm. Bouquet de la Reine.

Esprit de rose, } from pomade, of each, 1 pint. Extrait de violette, } " tubereuse, 1/2 " " fleur d'orange, 1/4 " Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. Rondeletia.

The perfume bearing the above name is undoubtedly one of the most gratifying to the smelling nerve that has ever been made. Its inventors, Messrs. Hannay and Dietrichsen, have probably taken the name of this odor from the Rondeletia, the Chyn-len of the Chinese; or from the R. odorata of the West Indies, which has a sweet odor. We have before observed that there is a similarity of effect upon the olfactory nerve produced by certain odors, although derived from totally different sources: that, for instance, otto of almonds may be mixed with extract of violet in such proportion that, although the odor is increased, yet the character peculiar to the violet is not destroyed. Again: there are certain odors which, on being mixed in due proportion, produce a new aroma, perfectly distinct and peculiar to itself. This effect is exemplified by comparison with the influence of certain colors when mixed, upon the nerve of vision: such, for instance, as when yellow and blue are mixed, the result we call green; or when blue and red are united, the compound color is known as puce or violet.

Now when the odor of lavender and odor of cloves are mixed, they produce a new fragrance, i.e. Rondeletia! It is such combinations that constitute in reality "a new perfume," which, though often advertised, is very rarely attained. Jasmine and patchouly produce a novel aroma, and many others in like manner; proportion and relative strength, when so mixed, must of course be studied, and the substances used accordingly. If the same quantity of any given otto be dissolved in a like proportion of spirit, and the solution be mixed in equal proportions, the strongest odor is instantly indicated by covering or hiding the presence of the other. In this way we discover that patchouly, lavender, neroli, and verbena are the most potent of the vegetable odors, and that violet, tubereuse, and jasmine are the most delicate.

Many persons will at first consider that we are asking too much, when we express a desire to have the same deference paid to the olfactory nerve, as to the other nerves that influence our physical pleasures and pains. By tutoring the olfactory nerve, it is capable of perceiving matter in the atmosphere of the most subtle nature: not only that which is pleasant, but also such as are unhealthful. If an unpleasant odor is a warning to seek a purer atmosphere, surely it is worth while to cultivate that power which enables us to act up to that warning for the general benefit of health.

To return, however, to Rondeletia: it will be seen by the annexed formulæ, that, besides the main ingredients to which it owes its peculiar character—that is, cloves and lavender—it contains musk, vanilla, &c. These substances are used in these as in nearly all other bouquets for the sole purpose of fixing the more volatile odors to the handkerchief.

Essence of Rondeletia.

Spirit (brandy 60 o.p.), 1 gallon. Otto of lavender, 2 oz. " cloves, 1 oz. " roses, 3 drachms. " bergamot, 1 oz. Extract of musk, } " vanilla, } each, 1/4 pint. " ambergris, }

The mixture must be made at least a month before it is fit for sale. Very excellent Rondeletia may also be made with English spirit.

Bouquet Royal.

Extract of rose (from pomade), 1 pint. Esprit de rose, triple, 1/2 " Extract of jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1/2 " " violet, } " verbena, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, } Otto of lemons, } each, 1/4 oz. " bergamot, } Extract of musk, } each, 1 oz. " ambergris, } Suave.

Extract of tubereuse, } " jasmine, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " cassie, } " rose, } " vanilla, 5 oz. " musk, } each, 2 oz. " ambergris, } Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. " cloves, 1 drachm. Spring Flowers.

Extract of rose, } from pomade, each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, triple, 2-1/2 oz. " cassie, 2-1/2 oz. Otto of bergamot, 2 drachms. Extract of ambergris, 1 oz.

The just reputation of this perfume places it in the first rank of the very best mixtures that have ever been made by any manufacturing perfumer. Its odor is truly flowery, but peculiar to itself. Being unlike any other aroma it cannot well be imitated, chiefly because there is nothing that we are acquainted with that at all resembles the odor of the esprit de rose, as derived from macerating rose pomade in spirit, to which, and to the extract of violet, nicely counterpoised, so that neither odor predominates, the peculiar character of "Spring Flowers" is due; the little ambergris that is present gives permanence to the odor upon the handkerchief, although from the very nature of the ingredients it may be said to be a fleeting odor. "Spring Flowers" is an Englishman's invention, but there is scarcely a perfumer in Europe that does not attempt an imitation.

Tulip Nosegay.

Nearly all the tulip tribe, although beautiful to the eye, are inodorous. The variety called the Duc Van Thol, however, yields an exquisite perfume, but it is not used by the manufacturer for the purpose of extracting its odor. He, however, borrows its poetical name, and makes an excellent imitation thus:—

Extract of tubereuse, } from pomade each, 1 pint. " violet, } " rose, 1/2 " " orris, 3 oz. Otto of almonds, 3 drops. Violette des Bois.

Under the head Violet, we have already explained the method of preparing the extract or essence of that modest flower. The Parisian perfumers sell a mixture of violet, which is very beautiful, under the title of the Violet des Bois, or the Wood Violet, which is made thus:—

Extract of violet, 1 pint. " orris, 3 oz. " cassie, 3 oz. " rose (from pomade) 3 oz. Otto of almonds, 3 drops.

This mixture, in a general way, gives more satisfaction to the customer than the pure violet.

Windsor Castle Bouquet.

Alcohol, 1 pint. Otto of neroli, } " rose, } each, 1/4 oz. " lavender, } " bergamot, } " cloves, 8 drops. Extract of orris, 1 pint. " jasmine, } each, 1/4 " " cassie, } " musk, } each, 2-1/2 oz. " ambergris, } Yacht Club Bouquet.

Extract of santal, 1 pint. " neroli, 1 " " jasmine, } each, 1/2 " " rose triple, } " vanilla, 1/4 " Flowers of benzoin, 1/4 oz.

We have now completed the branch of the Art of Perfumery which relates to handkerchief perfumes, or wet perfumery. Although we have rather too much encroached upon the space of this work in giving the composition of so many bouquets, yet there are many left unnoticed which are popular. Those that are given are noted more particularly for the peculiar character of their odor, and are selected from more than a thousand recipes that have been practically tried.

Those readers who require to know anything about the simple extracts of flowers are referred to them under their respective alphabetical titles.

SECTION VII.

The previous articles have exclusively treated of Wet Perfumes; the present matter relates, to Dry Perfumes,—sachet powders, tablets, pastilles, fumigation by the aid of heat of volatile odorous resins, &c. &c. The perfumes used by the ancients were, undoubtedly, nothing more than the odoriferous gums which naturally exude from various trees and shrubs indigenous to the Eastern hemisphere: that they were very extensively used and much valued, we have only to read the Scriptures for proofs:—"Who is this that cometh ... perfumed with myrrh and frankincense, with all the powders of the merchant?" (Song of Solomon, 3:6.) Abstaining from the use of perfume in

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