Home Vegetable Gardening by F. F. Rockwell (books for 6 year olds to read themselves TXT) 📖

CHAPTER IV

THE PLANTING PLAN

 

Having selected the garden spot, the next consideration, naturally, is

what shall be planted in it.

 

The old way was to get a few seed catalogues, pick out a list of the

vegetables most enthusiastically described by the (wholly

disinterested) seedsman, and then, when the time came, to put them in

at one or two plantings, and sowing each kind as far as the seed would

go. There is a better way—a way to make the garden produce more, to

yield things when you want them, and in the proper proportions.

 

All these advantages, you may suppose, must mean more work. On the

contrary, however, the new way makes very much less work and makes

results a hundred per cent. more certain. It is not necessary even that

more thought be put upon the garden, but forethought there must be.

Forethought, however, is much more satisfactory than hind-thought.

 

In the new way of gardening there are four great helps, four things

that will be of great assistance to the experienced gardener, and that

are indispensable to the success of the beginner. They are the Planting

Plan, the Planting Table, the Check List and the Garden Record.

 

Do not become discouraged at the formidable sound of that paragraph and

decide that after all you do not want to fuss so much over your garden;

that you are doing it for the fun of the thing anyway, and such

intricate systems will not be worth bothering with. The purpose of

those four garden helps is simply to make your work less and your

returns more. You might just as well refuse to use a wheel hoe because

the trowel was good enough for your grandmother’s garden, as to refuse

to take advantage of the modern garden methods described in this

chapter. Without using them to some extent, or in some modified form,

you can never know just what you are doing with your garden or what

improvements to make next year. Of course, each of the plans or lists

suggested here is only one of many possible combinations. You should be

able to find, or better still to construct, similar ones better suited

to your individual taste, need and opportunity. That, however, does not

lessen the necessity of using some such system. It is just as necessary

an aid to the maximum efficiency in gardening as are modern tools. Do

not fear that you will waste time on the planting plan. Master it and

use it, for only so can you make your garden time count for most in

producing results. In the average small garden there is a very large

percentage of waste—for two weeks, more string beans than can be eaten

or given away; and then, for a month, none at all, for instance. You

should determine ahead as nearly as possible how much of each vegetable

your table will require and then try to grow enough of each for a

continuous supply, and no more. It is just this that the planting plan

enables you to do.

 

I shall describe, as briefly as possible, forms of the planting plan,

planting table, check list and record, which I have found it convenient

to use.

 

To make the Planting Plan take a sheet of white paper and a ruler and

mark off a space the shape of your garden—which should be rectangular

if possible—using a scale of one-quarter or one-eighth inch to the

foot. Rows fifty feet long will be found a convenient length for the

average home garden. In a garden where many varieties of things are

grown it will be best to run the rows the short way of the piece. We

will take a fifty-foot row for the purpose of illustration, though of

course it can readily be changed in proportion where rows of that

length can not conveniently be made. In a very small garden it will be

better to make the row, say, twenty-five feet long, the aim being

always to keep the row a unit and have as few broken ones as possible,

and still not to have to plant more of any one thing than will be

needed.

 

In assigning space for the various vegetables several things should be

kept in mind in order to facilitate planting, replanting and

cultivating the garden. These can most quickly be realized by a glance

at the plan illustrated herewith. You will notice that crops that

remain several years—rhubarb and asparagus—are kept at one end. Next

come such as will remain a whole season—parsnips, carrots, onions and

the like. And finally those that will be used for a succession of

crops—peas, lettuce, spinach. Moreover, tall-growing crops, like pole

beans, are kept to the north of lower ones. In the plan illustrated the

space given to each variety is allotted according to the proportion in

which they are ordinarily used. If it happens that you have a special

weakness for peas, or your mother-in-law an aversion to peppers, keep

these tastes and similar ones in mind when laying out your planting

plan.

 

Do not leave the planning of your garden until you are ready to put the

seeds in the ground and then do it all in a rush. Do it in January, as

soon as you have received the new year’s catalogues and when you have

time to study over them and look up your record of the previous year.

Every hour spent on the plan will mean several hours saved in the

garden.

 

The Planting Table is the next important system in the business of

gardening, especially for the beginner. In it one can see at a glance

all the details of the particular treatment each vegetable requires—

when to sow, how deep, how far apart the rows should be, etc. I

remember how many trips from garden to house to hunt through catalogues

for just such information I made in my first two seasons’ gardening.

How much time, just at the very busiest season of the whole year, such

a table would have saved!

––––––––––––––––––

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45 50

–––––––––––––––––—|

0| |PA| | |

| RHUBARB-2 |RS| | SEED BED |

| |LE|??| |

5| |Y | | |

|––––––––––––––––-|

| ASPARAGUS-2 |

10|––––––––––––––––-|

| |

| POLE BEANS-2 |

15|––––––––––––––––-|

| TOMATOES-1 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

20| CABBAGE EARLY-1 |

| LATE -1 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

25| BROCCOLI-1 | BRUSSELS SPROUTS-1 |

| PEPPERS-1 | EGG PLANT-1 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

30| CELERY-1 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

| |

35| ONIONS-5-1/2 |

| LEEKS-1/2 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

40| |

| CARROTS-4 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

45| |

| BEETS-4 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

50| TURNIPS-1-1/2 | RUTABAGA-1/2 |

| PARSNIPS-1 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

55| |

| |

| |

60| CORN-4 |

| |

| |

65| |

| |

|––––––––––––––––-|

70| |

| |

| |

75| PEAS-4 |

| |

| |

80|––––––––––––––––-|

| |

| BUSH BEANS-3 |

85|––––––––––––––––-|

| |

| LETTUCE-2 |

90| ONION SETS-1 | ENDIVE-1 |

|––––––––––––––––-|

| MUSKMELONS-6 HILLS | CUCUMBERS-7 HILLS |

95|––––––––––––––––-|

| | |

| PUMPKINS-4H | WATERMELONS-5H |

100| | |

|––––––––––––––––-|

| | SUMMER SQUASH, BUSH-8H |

105| WINTER SQUASH-5H | |

| | SUMMER SQUASH, VINE-5H |

| | |

110|––––––––––––––––-|

 

A typical Planting Plan. The scale measurements at the left and top

indicate the length and distance apart of rows. [ED. Distances are

approximate, due to typing line constraints.]

 

The Planting Table prepared for one’s own use should show, besides the

information given, the varieties of each vegetable which experience has

proved best adapted to one’s own needs. The table shown herewith gives

such a list; varieties which are for the most part standard favorites

and all of which, with me, have proven reliable, productive and of good

quality. Other good sorts will be found described in Part Two. Such a

table should be mounted on cardboard and kept where it may readily be

referred to at planting time.

 

The Check List is the counterpart of the planting table, so arranged

that its use will prevent anything from being overlooked or left until

too late. Prepare it ahead, some time in January, when you have time to

think of everything. Make it up from your planting table and from the

previous year’s record. From this list it will be well to put down on a

sheet of paper the things to be done each month (or week) and cross

them off as they are attended to. Without some such system it is almost

a certainty that you will overlook some important things.

 

The Garden Record is no less important. It may be kept in the simplest

sort of way, but be sure to keep it. A large piece of paper ruled as

follows, for instance, will require only a few minutes’ attention each

week and yet will prove of the greatest assistance in planning the

garden next season.

 

VEGETABLE GARDEN RECORD—1910

––––-|–––––|––—|––—|–––––––-

VEGETABLE |VARIETY | PUT IN | READY | NOTES

––––-|–––––|––—|––—|–––––––-

Beans, dwarf |Red Valentine | May 10 | July 6 | Not best quality. Try

| | | | other earlies

|Golden Wax | May 15 | July 22| Rusted. Spray next

| | | | year

Bean, pole |Old Homestead | May 16 | July 26| Too many. 6 poles

| | | | next year

|Early Leviathan| May 25 | Aug. 19| Good. Dry.

Bean, lima |Fordhook | May 15 | | Rotted. Try May 25

Beet |Egyptian | Apr. 10| June 12| Roots sprangled

|Eclipse | Apr. 10| June 14| Better quality

Cabbage |Wakefield | Apr. 9 | June 20| Injured by worms.

| | | |Hellebore next year

Etc., etc. | | | |

––––-|–––––|––—|––-|–––––––-

The above shows how such a record will be kept. Of course, only the

first column is written in ahead. I want to emphasize in passing,

however, the importance of putting down your data on the day you plant,

or harvest, or notice anything worth recording. If you let it go until

tomorrow it is very apt to be lacking next year.

 

Try these four short-cuts to success, even if you have had a garden

before. They will make a big difference in your garden; less work and

greater results.

 

CHECK LIST

 

Jan. 1st—Send for catalogues. Make planting plan and table. Order

seeds.

 

Feb. 1st—Inside: cabbage, cauliflower, first sowing. Onions for

plants.

 

Feb. 15th—Inside: lettuce, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts,

beets.

 

March 1st—Inside: lettuce, celery, tomato (early).

 

March 15th—Inside: lettuce, tomato (main), eggplant, pepper, lima

beans, cucumber, squash; sprout potatoes in sand.

 

April 1st—Inside: cauliflower (on sods), muskmelon, watermelon, corn.

Outside: (seed-bed) celery, cabbage, lettuce. Onions, carrots, smooth

peas, spinach, beets, chard, parsnip, turnip, radish. Lettuce, cabbage

(plants).

 

May 1st—Beans, corn, spinach, lettuce, radish.

 

May 15th—Beans, limas, muskmelon, watermelon, summer squash, peas,

potatoes, lettuce, radish, tomato (early), corn, limas, melon, cucumber

and squash (plants). Pole-lima, beets, corn, kale, winter squash,

pumpkin, lettuce, radish.

 

June 1st—Beans, carrots, corn, cucumber, peas, summer spinach, summer

lettuce, radish, eggplant, pepper, tomato (main plants).

 

June 15th—Beans, corn, peas, turnip, summer lettuce, radish, late

cabbage, and tomato plants.

 

July 1st—Beans, endive, kale, lettuce, radish, winter cabbage,

cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and celery plants.

 

July 15th—Beans, early corn, early peas, lettuce, radish.

 

Aug. 1st—Early peas, lettuce, radish.

 

Aug. 15th—Early peas, lettuce, radish in seed-bed, forcing lettuce for

fall in frames.

 

Sept. 1st—Lettuce, radish, spinach and onions for wintering over.

 

NOTE.—This list is for planting only (the dates are approximate: see

note I at the end of the chapter). Spraying and other garden operations

may also be included in such a list. See “Calendar of Operations” at

end of book.

 

PLANTING TABLE

 

DEPTH TO -DISTANCE