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and it is always disagreeable to go into that country; but it is very old and there are many double-spired churches and it stands up like a pyramid out of the green valley of the Lahn. I donā€™t suppose the Ashburnhams wanted especially to go there and I didnā€™t especially want to go there myself. But, you understand, there was no objection. It was part of the cure to make an excursion three or four times a week. So that we were all quite unanimous in being grateful to Florence for providing the motive power. Florence, of course, had a motive of her own. She was at that time engaged in educating Captain Ashburnhamā ā€”oh, of course, quite pour le bon motif! She used to say to Leonora: ā€œI simply canā€™t understand how you can let him live by your side and be so ignorant!ā€ Leonora herself always struck me as being remarkably well educated. At any rate, she knew beforehand all that Florence had to tell her. Perhaps she got it up out of Baedeker before Florence was up in the morning. I donā€™t mean to say that you would ever have known that Leonora knew anything, but if Florence started to tell us how Ludwig the Courageous wanted to have three wives at onceā ā€”in which he differed from Henry VIII, who wanted them one after the other, and this caused a good deal of troubleā ā€”if Florence started to tell us this, Leonora would just nod her head in a way that quite pleasantly rattled my poor wife.

She used to exclaim: ā€œWell, if you knew it, why havenā€™t you told it all already to Captain Ashburnham? Iā€™m sure he finds it interesting!ā€ And Leonora would look reflectively at her husband and say: ā€œI have an idea that it might injure his handā ā€”the hand, you know, used in connection with horsesā€™ mouths.ā ā€Šā ā€¦ā€ And poor Ashburnham would blush and mutter and would say: ā€œThatā€™s all right. Donā€™t you bother about me.ā€

I fancy his wifeā€™s irony did quite alarm poor Teddy; because one evening he asked me seriously in the smoking-room if I thought that having too much in oneā€™s head would really interfere with oneā€™s quickness in polo. It struck him, he said, that brainy Johnnies generally were rather muffs when they got on to four legs. I reassured him as best I could. I told him that he wasnā€™t likely to take in enough to upset his balance. At that time the Captain was quite evidently enjoying being educated by Florence. She used to do it about three or four times a week under the approving eyes of Leonora and myself. It wasnā€™t, you understand, systematic. It came in bursts. It was Florence clearing up one of the dark places of the earth, leaving the world a little lighter than she had found it. She would tell him the story of Hamlet; explain the form of a symphony, humming the first and second subjects to him, and so on; she would explain to him the difference between Arminians and Erastians; or she would give him a short lecture on the early history of the United States. And it was done in a way well calculated to arrest a young attention. Did you ever read Mrs. Markham? Well, it was like that.ā ā€Šā ā€¦

But our excursion to Mā āøŗ was a much larger, a much more full dress affair. You see, in the archives of the Schloss in that city there was a document which Florence thought would finally give her the chance to educate the whole lot of us together. It really worried poor Florence that she couldnā€™t, in matters of culture, ever get the better of Leonora. I donā€™t know what Leonora knew or what she didnā€™t know, but certainly she was always there whenever Florence brought out any information. And she gave, somehow, the impression of really knowing what poor Florence gave the impression of having only picked up. I canā€™t exactly define it. It was almost something physical. Have you ever seen a retriever dashing in play after a greyhound? You see the two running over a green field, almost side by side, and suddenly the retriever makes a friendly snap at the other. And the greyhound simply isnā€™t there. You havenā€™t observed it quicken its speed or strain a limb; but there it is, just two yards in front of the retrieverā€™s outstretched muzzle. So it was with Florence and Leonora in matters of culture.

But on this occasion I knew that something was up. I found Florence some days before, reading books like Rankeā€™s History of the Popes, Symondsā€™ Renaissance, Motleyā€™s Rise of the Dutch Republic and Lutherā€™s Table Talk.

I must say that, until the astonishment came, I got nothing but pleasure out of the little expedition. I like catching the two-forty; I like the slow, smooth roll of the great big trainsā ā€”and they are the best trains in the world! I like being drawn through the green country and looking at it through the clear glass of the great windows. Though, of course, the country isnā€™t really green. The sun shines, the earth is blood red and purple and red and green and red. And the oxen in the ploughlands are bright varnished brown and black and blackish purple; and the peasants are dressed in the black and white of magpies; and there are great flocks of magpies too. Or the peasantsā€™ dresses in another field where there are little mounds of hay that will be grey-green on the sunny side and purple in the shadowsā ā€”the peasantsā€™ dresses are vermilion with emerald green ribbons and purple skirts and white shirts and black velvet stomachers. Still, the impression is that you are drawn through brilliant green meadows that run away on each side to the dark purple fir-woods; the basalt pinnacles; the immense forests. And there is meadowsweet at the edge of the streams, and cattle. Why, I remember on that afternoon I saw

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