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How to Make a Shoe by John Parker Headley (romantic novels to read .txt) đź“–
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[p41]
The union of thread and bristle, now,
Will keep us to our text,
For from this you’ll no doubt see
What is coming next.
The
bristle is
split a little o’er half way,
In the left hand has its place,
Between the finger and thumb to play
An important part in the race.
One-half over the forefinger you see,
Held in place by the next,
The
thread and
bristle both agree
To be thus placed is best.
Do not
split but roll it on,
Some have said and done,
By
waxing the
bristle where the other is split,
And continued from sun to sun.
[p42]
Twisting the thread
[p43]
Now either way to start will do,
As much depends on
twisting,
The
hairy part is left for you
To make sort of
whisting.
Back to the scene from whence we came,
With our
end in place to hasten,
Make a
hole quite through the thread,
The
point pass through and fasten.
[p44]
A crooked awl
[p45]
So much about the bristle said,
No doubt you’ll think it strange
That needles are not used instead—
Some have tried the change.
They may be used with good effect,
In sewing through and through;
But when we use a
crooked awl,
The
bristle stands by true.
[p46]
Finding the middle
[p47]
One more remark about the
end
We thus have kept in view,
To find the middle is the thing
Now left for us to do.
Not very hard, but easy quite;
In the left hand even joints—
The right hand holding the other end,
This fills up all the points.
[p48]
Clamping
[p49]
Another change in things takes place,
This time the clamps appear;
Between the
knees they run their race,
And hold the
upper dear.
The
vamp and
quarters as they were pasted,
Are seen now in their place;
The vamp extending above the clamps,
With the
quarters easy to trace.
Begin to
sew at extreme end;
Put left-hand
bristle first in;
Across the
vamp our
sewing extend,
Two
rows that may be seen.
[p50]
Sewing the quarter
[p51]
This nicely done, just change a little;
The position is clearly seen
When we have this
quarter stitched near the back,
Say half inch in between,
Pull through one thread and tie it tight,
On the inside to be left;
Begin to
sew the other quarter,
Close at the
vamp is right.
[p52]
Sewing
[p53]
Sew to the
back, and then begin
Another row up the front;
Sew to the
top, ’twill be no sin,
But the doing of what is wont.
These rows, half an inch apart,
Will serve the present state,
Because now we have a splendid start,
And getting on first rate.
Then down the
front on the other side,
To the
vamp be sure to go;
Never allow your work to slide,
But take it out just so.
[p54]
Trimming the back seam
[p55]
The
front is sewed, the back is not,
But it will be very soon;
This must never be forgot,
As it takes up part the room.
The
out-sides together at the back are seen,
As we are about to sew
A little
strip, put in between,
To make it stronger grow.
Down to the bottom we’ll sew the way,
Until it is complete;
Then
trim the
seam, and rub it well
With a
bone found on the
seat.
[p56]
Whipping down the leather
[p57]
You will observe the
back is changed,
The
linings are together;
This can be quite well arranged
By
whipping down this
leather.
Either whipping over and over, or through and through,
Just as the case may be;
Neither way is very new
As we may clearly see.
But we should do it, and
rub down
flat,
For now the time has come
When we have had enough of that,
And our
upper is near done.
[p58]
Stitching the top of the back
[p59]
The
upper has now its right side out,
“Right-side out with care;”
A little stitching at the top of the back
Will make it look quite fair.
We stopped stitching, you remember well,
Before we reached the back,
When on the
quarters we did dwell,
And left a vacant
track.
[p60]
Finishing the upper
[p61]
That track now is filled up well,
Yet we do hold it fast,
Knowing that a time will come
To put it on the
last.
Before that time is reached, however,
The
eyelets, bear in mind,
Should each be put in proper place,
So that the
holes we find
Will let the
strings pass easily through,
When
punched and
set in straight;
We have now the
upper for our
shoe,
Do try and make the
mate.
[p62]
The completed upper
[p63]
This
upper completed by the past,
Has made it much a treasure,
For we must also have a
last,
And fit it up to measure.
Since we have kept our seat so long,
A change may rest our back;
So at the
bench we’ll take our stand,
Close by our friend, the
jack.
The Bailey jack is the name of this
One, screwed down upon the
post;
For general use it will not miss,
But serve our end the most.
[p64]
At the bench, checking the last
[p65]
Lasts are made of many woods,
Of ash, of oak, and maple;
Well seasoned is this stock of goods,
Some kinds are very staple.
Some are made with
iron plates,
To
clinch the screw or nail,
But when we would a peg shoe make,
To use these plates would fail.
Made, also, for men and boys,
Women and girls, for each
Has on this
art a special claim,
Their feet to train and teach.
To dwell here longer would not do,
The last we want’s in the hand;
We’ll measure the same as we did the foot,
And thus our
trade command.
The length, you know, is measured first;
Two
sizes added on
Will make the toe so comfortable,
We should like to sing a song.
[p66]
Checking the heel measurement of the last
[p67]
The heel we reach in perfect order,
And leave the measure neat;
Some shoes are made which look much broader
When put upon the feet.
[p68]
Checking the instep measurement of the last
[p69]
The
instep now we see again,
And measure as before,
One-half inch off will answer us,
No less, and not much more.
For if we do we are apt to find
The place where shoes do pinch;
Across the
ball we’re now inclined,
Still measuring by the inch.
[p70]
Checking the measurement of the last around the ball of the foot
[p71]
This is at times a tender spot:
Bunions develop there;
And when they do ’tis not forgot,
We may be e’er so fair.
One-quarter
size we leave off here,
As on our way we go,
Travelling on, without a fear,
Until we reach the toe.
[p72]
Checking the toe measurement of the last
[p73]
Another quarter we would say,
At this point we may drop,
For we are now quite far away
From the ankle and the top.
But further yet, we are bound to go,
The
bottom must be reached,
Where
soles are made and often
saved,
’Though the
saver be
impeached.
The
last we put upon a
side
Of white or red sole leather,
And mark with knife, or pencil wide,
The parts of
sole together.
The parts are known, each one defined,
Inner and
outer sole;
A
middle one, when we are kind,
Lifts and
shank piece make the whole.
[p74]
The inner sole pegged to the last
[p75]
The
inner sole on the
last is put,
The
pegs just where you see
Keep the sole where it belongs,
In order to agree.
The edge is bevelled from heel to heel;
The mark across the breast
Shows us when and where we may
Take a little rest.
[p76]
Placing the upper over the last
[p77]
The
upper straight upon the
last,
With the
seams appearing right,
The stiffening smooth just at the back,
Will draw upon our sight.
This should be done when we begin
To draw the upper over,
So that the
last in all its parts
Shall have a proper cover.
[p78]
Drawing the upper over the last
[p79]
Draw steady, until we have it close
At the heel and at the toe;
If these parts should be too loose
It would nearly spoil the shoe.
Draw steady, or you’ll make a crack,
Which will there remain;
Perhaps may cause us to go back,
And do it over again.
[p80]
Fastening the upper to the sole
[p81]
The
upper, in the way described,
Drawn gently at the toe,
We hold it down with our left thumb,
While a
peg we try make go.
On either side of the toe now work,
And in the same way fasten
The
upper down upon the
sole;
To the heel we now must hasten.
[p82]
Tacking the upper at the seam
[p83]
Let the upper at the
seam
Have now a secure tack;
The stiffening, all straight in between
The
lining and the
back.
Be sure you get the lining smooth,
The part inside the shoe;
If it is not, you may sometime
Have a thing to make you blue.
[p84]
Closing the front
[p85]
Now put the shoe upon the
bench,
In the way shown in the cut;
And with a
string and
button
Use care to close the front.
We no doubt now do see the thing
Taking on a shape,
Which, in the end, will surely bring
Us clear out of the scrape.
[p86]
The shoe now placed on the jack
[p87]
The shoe is now placed on the
jack;
A
hole, for the
pin in the
last,
Serves to keep the same intact,
While the
toe piece holds it fast.
Now at the
breast, draw over outside,
Close upon the
sole;
Take your time, for something’s gained,
While filling up the hole.
The awl, you see, should not be large;
In
lasting use small
pegs;
Just drive them through the
inner sole,
No danger of your legs.
[p88]
Using the thumbs while lasting
[p89]
We will now note the difference:
The inside
shank is longer;
If we would last it very smooth,
We must pull all the stronger.
The thumbs at this are very clever,
When their part is nicely played,
Serving as a splendid lever,
While working in the shade.
[p90]
Lasting the inside ball
[p91]
We are now at the
inside ball—
Be careful not to scratch it;
When in position we are found
We are more apt to catch it.
When this we’ve caught, and feel safe to leave
For the other side,
We’ll find the heel where the toe has been,
By this we must abide.
[p92]
Lasting the upper at the toe
[p93]
Everything quite in its place,
The future for us yet;
Let’s
last the
upper all around,
’Till at the
toe we get.
Still using
awl in
pincer hand,
Alternating endly,
For at this
post we’ve taken stand
To grow up very friendly.
[p94]
Crimps at toe and heel
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