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THE FUNERAL DANCE.
A Funeral Dance—Bari Interpreters—Commoro, the Lion—Conversation
with Commoro—“Where will the Spirit live?”—“Good and bad all die”—
Failure of the religious Argument—Further Conversation—The Camel
poisoned—Habits of the Camel—Camel’s peculiar Constitution—The
Hygeen, or riding Dromedary—Loss of Camel a Misfortune—Dirty Donkeys
CHAPTER VII.
LATOOKA.
Herds of the Latookas and Game—Storm—Effects of Rain upon Natives—
Native Blacksmiths—Their Tools—Elephants—Elephant Hunt—Tetel, my
old Hunter—Charged by a herd of Elephants—Cowardly Followers—Track
the wounded Elephant—Nearly caught—Tetel distressed—Return to Camp
—African and Indian Elephants—Height of Elephants—Food of Elephants
—African and Ceylon Elephants—Difference in Formation of Brain—
Rifles and Bullets for heavy Game—Character of Country and its Sports
—The “Baby”—Method of killing Elephants—Elephant Pitfalls—
Circling them with Fire—Native Hunting—The Bagara Hunters—Danger
of Elephant Hunting
CHAPTER VIII.
IBRAHIM’s RETURN.
The African Black—Comparison between Whites and Blacks—Varieties in
Creation—The Negro—Character of the Negro-Originated African Slave
System—Indisposition to Work—Negro Slave Hunters—Ibrahimawa; or,
Sinbad the Sailor—Makkarika Cannibals—My daily Employments—
Quarrels with the Latookas—Parley with Latooka Chiefs—The Latookas
seize a Gun—Helplessness in an Advance—Hope to the South—Journey
to Obbo—Uncomfortable Night—Enter the Mountains—Beautiful Scenery
—Arrive at Obbo—Natives of Obbo—Butter Nuts and Fruits—Pottery
and Utensils—Natural Features of Obbo—Katchiba, Chief of Obbo—
Entertained with a Dance—Women of Obbo—Languages of Tribes—
Katchiba’s Diplomacy—Katchiba “always at Home”—Family Government—
The great Magician—Reconnaissance to the South—Mrs. Baker’s Dwelling
—An Upset—Loss of Filfil—My Bivouac—Ceremony of Welcome at
Farajoke—Elevated Country at Farajoke—Stopped by the Asua—Return
to Obbo—Gallantry of Katchiba—Katchiba determines to ride—First
Attempts at Horsemanship—Recover the lost Horse—Ceremony at parting
with Katchiba—Return to Latooka—Discovery of supposed Yams—Beware
of Botanists—Baboons—The Maharif Antelope—The Giraffe—Hunting
Giraffes—Unsuccessful Hunt—Benighted—Regain the Party—
Bread-baking on the March—Sickness; Smallpox—Wani, the Interpreter
—First Clue to the Lake—Brown Men are called White
CHAPTER IX.
THE TURKS ATTACK KAYALA.
The “Pleasant Robber” killed—Division of the Spoil—Discord among the
Natives—The Life of Women spared in War—Scarcity of Salt, among the
Latookas—Another Cause of Alarm—The Turks murder a Native—Country
disturbed—Good Sport—Two Thieves—Ibrahimawa’s Reminiscences of
England—Party recalled to Obbo—White Ants—Destructiveness of Birds
—Cattle Stealers at Night—A Thief shot—My Wife ill with Fever—
March to Obbo—Great Puff Adder—Poison-fangs of Snakes—Violent
Storm—Arrive again at Obbo—Hostility caused by the Turks—The M.D.
attends us—Death of “Mouse”—Marauding Expedition—Saat becomes
scientific—Saat and Gaddum Her—Will England suppress the Slave
Trade?—Filthy Customs of the Natives—The Egyptian Scarabaeus—
Bacheeta, the Unyoro Slave—Intelligence of the Lake—Its probable
Commercial Advantages—Commerce with the Interior—Obbo the Clothing
Frontier—Death of my last Camel—Excellent Species of Gourd—A
Morning Call in Obbo—Katchiba’s Musical Accomplishments—Loss of
remaining Donkey—Deceived by the Turks—Fever—Symptoms—Dismal
Prospect, “Coming Events,” &c.
CHAPTER X.
LIFE AT OBBO.
Physician in General—Influence gained over the People—Katchiba is
applied to for Rain—“Are you a Rainmaker?”—Katchiba takes Counsel’s
Opinion—Successful Case—Night-watch for Elephants—Elephant killed
—Dimensions of the Elephant—Wild Boars—Start for the South—Mrs.
Baker thrown from her Ox—The Asua River—Stalking Mehedehet Antelope
—A Prairie Fire—Tracking an Antelope—Turks’ Standard-bearer killed
—Arrival at Shooa—The Neighbourhood of Shooa—Fruitfulness of Shooa
—Cultivation and Granaries—Absconding of Obbo Porters—“Wheels
within Wheels”—Difficulty in starting South—Departure from Shooa—
Fatiko Levee—Boundless Prairies—Fire the Prairies—Deceit of the
Guide—Arrive at the Victoria Nile—Arrive at Rionga’s Country—Start
for Karuma—The Karuma Falls—Welcome by Kamrasi’s People—Passage of
the River forbidden—To await Reply of Kamrasi—The Natives’ Dread of
Kamrasi—They hold a Conference—Resolve to cross the River alone—
The Ferry of Atada—Reception by Keedja—I lull the Suspicions of the
Natives—Appellations of Speke and Grant—Freemasonry of Unyoro—
Native Curiosity—The Bark Cloth of Unyoro—Comparative Civilization
of Unyoros—Native Pottery—The Bottle Gourds used as Models—“Great
Men never in a Hurry to pay Visits”—Pronounced to be Speke’s Brother—
The Escort cross the River—Neatness of the Natives in packing—Native
Manufactures—March parallel with the Victoria Nile—Severe Illness of
Mrs. Baker—March to the Capital—Kamrasi suspects Treachery—Arrive
at last at the Capital—Imprisoned on the Marsh—Expectation of an
Attack—Kamrasi makes a State Visit—Conversation with the King—His
Reception of my Presents—Another Interview with Kamrasi—Exchange
Blood and become Friends—Avarice of the King—Permitted to leave our
Fever-bed—Ibrahim and Party return North—Sulkiness of Bacheeta—
Attempt to barter for Speke’s Rifle—Rapacity of the Chiefs.
CHAPTER XI.
THE START FOR THE LAKE.
Despicable Conduct of the King—Pertinacity of Kamrasi—Kamrasi’s
Infamous Proposal—Resentment of the King’s Insolence—The King’s
Apology—Expectation of a Fight—Kamrasi’s Satanic Escort—The Rout
at a Gun-shot—A disagreeable Escort—Passage of the Kafoor—Mrs.
Baker receives a Sun-stroke—Dismissal of the brutal Escort—Misery
and Distress—Return to Consciousness, but afflicted with Brain-fever
CHAPTER XII.
RECOVERED.
The Sugarcane indigenous—Unyoro People clean Feeders—Close to the
Lake—Discovery of the Albert N’yanza—Gratitude to Providence—
Denominate it “The Albert N’yanza”—Fishing Tackle—The Lake declared
to be the Sea—Feast in honour of the Discovery—Survey of the Lake—
Geography of the Lake—Countries bordering the Lake—The Great Basin
of the Nile—Sources of the Nile—Affluents of the Albert Lake—Our
whole party Fever-stricken—Yearning for Home—Arrange Canoes for Lake
Voyage—Start from Vacovia—Voyage upon the Lake—Shore Encampment—
Deserted by the Boatmen—No Pilot—Endeavour to civilize the Canoes—
Adapt a Scotch Plaid for a Sail—Natives volunteer as Boatmen—Storm
on the Lake—Nearly swamped—Land safely on Shore—Falls of the
Kaiigiri River—Shoot a Crocodile—Taste of Crocodile Flesh—
Discomforts of Lake Voyage—Elephants in the Lake—Inhospitable
Natives—Procure Supplies—The Lake changes its character—Arrival at
Magungo—Embouchure of the Somerset River—Fish and Fishing—The
Baggera and Lepidosiren Annecteus—Native Fishing Arrangements—Exit
of the Nile from the Lake—Nile navigable from Lake to Madi—The
Victoria Nile at Magungo—Determination to settle Nile Question—Nobly
seconded by Mrs. Baker—Leave Magungo—Voyage up the Victoria Nile—
Stricken again with Fever—Guided by Waterplants—Numerous Crocodiles
—The Murchison Falls—Hippopotamus charges the Canoe—Narrow Escape
from Crocodiles—Arrival of Oxen, but not the Guide—Loss of Oxen from
Fly-bite—Sickness on the March—The Island of Patooan—Information
about Ibrahim—Difference in the Level—Difference in Observations—
Altitudes
CHAPTER XIII.
TREACHEROUS DESIGNS OF THE NATIVES.
Confined in the Country—Determine to proceed—Deserted by the Natives
—Discovery of a “Tullaboon” Granary—Misery at Shooa Moru—Hard Fare
—Preparation for Death—Kamrasi’s Tactics—The Bait takes—We are
carried to the King’s Camp—Rejoin the Turks’ Detachment—Their
Welcome—Kamrasi seeks my Alliance—Deception of Kamrasi—M’Gambi has
impersonated the King—The real Kamrasi—Prefer seeing Meat to a King
—The begging Envoy—Carried to the Camp of Kamrasi—Introduction to
the real King—Description of Kamrasi—The Native Court
CHAPTER XIV.
AT HOME IN KISOONA.
System of Fattening—Native Preparations of Food—Native Manufactures
—Knavery of Native Butter-dealers—Vapour Bath for Fever—State Visit
from the King—Mendicancy again—The King in love with a Tooth-comb—
Effect of concave Mirror—Attempts at Ancient History—Kamrasi’s
Request—Kamrasi affronted—Sudden Invasion of the Country—Alarm and
Cowardice of Kamrasi—The British Flag protects Unyoro—Diplomatic
Arrangement—Conference with Debono’s Party—Settle authoritatively
all Objections—Retreat of the Invaders.
CHAPTER XV.
KAMRASI BEGS FOR THE BRITISH FLAG.
The pertinacious Beggar—Summary Justice for High Treason—Arrival of
Ivory for the Turks—Frightful Barbarities upon Captives—The Female
Captives—Treacherous Murder of Sali—Disputes with Kamrasi—Advice
to Kamrasi—The Turks begin to bully—Eddrees refused Admittance at
Court—Communicate with Ibrahim—Drunkenness among the Unyoros—
Native Sorcerers—Implicit Belief in Sorcerers—Invasion of the M’Was
—Consulted by the King in the Extremity—Kamrasi will not Fight—An
invigorating little Difficulty—Mock Valour by Unyoros—Kamrasi’s
Retreat—We are Deserted—Prepare for Retreat—Leave Kisoona—Arrive
at Deang—No Water—Deserted again by the Porters—Richarn missing—
Richarn reported as killed—The M’Was’ Drums beat—March to Foweera—
The Night Retreat—Lose the Road—At a Loss for direct Route—Capture
a Native—Recover the Route—Exhaustion of Mrs. Baker—Arrive at
Foweera—Well prepared—Refuse to assist Kamrasi—Richarn’s Return—
Richarn’s Story—The King in Distress—Arrival of Ibrahim with
Reinforcements—Receive Letters and Papers from Home—Kamrasi “is
himself again”—Invasion of the Langgo Country—The Whisky Distillery
—Kamrasi tries the Whisky—Butcheries by Kamrasi—Kamrasi orders the
Murder of Kalloe—Attempt to save Kalloe—Pursuit and Capture of Kalloe
—I intercede on his behalf—Death of a Headman—Shot by order of
Kamrasi—The Warning—The Bodyguard
CHAPTER XVI.
KAMRASI’S ADIEU,
Begging to the last—We quit Kamrasi’s Territory—March to Shooa—
Arrive at Shooa—The Lira Tribe—Resemblance of Natives’ and Lawyers’
Wigs—Result of the Turks’ Razzias—Loss of Cattle by the Turks—The
Fight with Werdella—Courage of Werdella—Werdella defeats the Turks—
Murder of a Native—Runaway slaves recaptured—Brutality of the Turks
—Little Abbai—The Children of the Camp—Pleasant Time with the
Children—Shoot a Crocodile—The Black Rhinoceros—The Lira
Headdress—Native Use of Donkeys
CHAPTER XVII.
THE NATIVES IN MOURNING.
Results of the Ivory Campaign—Preparations for starting Homeward—
Part regretfully with the Children—The Traveller’s Tree—View of the
Nile—Koshi and Madi—Gebel Kookoo—On Speke and Grant’s Route—
Changes in the Nile—The Asua River—Suspicious Movements of the
Natives—Attacked in the Pass—Night in a hostile Country—Camp
surrounded by Natives—Poisoned Arrows shot into Camp—Sight Belignan
—Approach Gondokoro—Arrive at Gondokoro—Neither Letters nor
Supplies—Disappointment.
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE LATEST NEWS FROM KHARTOUM.
Intelligence from Khartoum—Retreat of the Slaves—Influence gained
over Traders’ People—Sail from Gondokoro—The Nile cleared of its
Mystery—The Victoria Source—Ptolemy’s Theory—Rainfall—Affluents
of the White Nile—Action of the Abyssinian Rivers—Colonization
impossible—Slavery the Curse of Africa—Impotence of European Consuls
—Impossibility of convicting a Trader—Central Africa opened to
Navigation—Tribes of Central Africa—Vestiges of a Pre-Adamite
Creation—Geological Formation—Hypothesis of Equatorial Lakes—Sir
Roderick Murchison’s Theories confirmed—Sir Roderick Murchison’s
Address
CHAPTER XIX.
THE BLACK ANTELOPE.
Antelope shooting—Arrive at Junction of Bahr el Gazal—Arrive at the
Nile Dam—Character of the Obstruction—Passage through the Dam—The
Plague breaks out—Saat smitten by the Plague—Entertained by Osman
Bey—Saat dies—Burial of Saat—Arrival at Khartoum—Albert Lake
Reservoir of Nile—Destruction by the Plague—A Darkness that might be
felt—Horrible Slave Cargo—Meet with Mahommed Her—Mahommed Her
punished—Nearly wrecked—Stranded among Cataracts—Clear the Danger
—Start from Berber to Souakim—A Row in the Desert—Combat with the
Arabs—“Bravo, Zeneb!”—Disarm the Arabs—Cross the Mountains—First
View of the Sea—Souakim—Arrival at Suez—Farewell to Africa—
Exertions appreciated
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
General Map of Country, Nile Basin
Arms and Instruments of various Tribes
Nuehr Natives coming to the Boats
Joctian, Chief of the Nuehr Tribe
Chief of Kytch and Daughter
Starving boy of Kytch Tribe begging
The Boys who have begged
A Homestead of the Bari Tribe-The usual Attitudes of the Men
Legge the Chief
Commoro running to the Fight
Bokke-Wife of Moy, Chief of Latooka
Drake’s Head
Crimson-headed Spur-winged Goose
The Latooka Funeral Dance
Latooka Blacksmiths
The last Charge
Headdress of Obbo (1) and Shoggo (2)
Women of Obbo
Katchiba’s eldest Son
Katchiba and his Hebe on a Journey
Overhauling the Giraffes
The Obbo War Dance
Mehedehet Antelope
Natives of Lira (1) and Madi (2) in the Camp at Shooa
My Examination by the Chiefs on entering Unyoro-Resolved,
that I am Speke’s Brother
The Start from the M’rooli for the Lake with Kamrasi’s Satanic
Escort
The Storm on the Albert Lake
The Baggera
Lepidosiren Annecteus
The Murchison Falls, about 120 ft. high from the Victoria Nile
or Somerset River to the Level of the Albert Lake
The Welcome on our Return to the Camp at Shooa
Head of Black Rhinoceros
The Chief of the Lira Tribe
Skirmish with the Natives
INTRODUCTION.
The primary object of geographical exploration is the opening to general
intercourse such portions of the earth as may become serviceable to the
human race. The explorer is the precursor of the colonist; and the
colonist is the human instrument by which the great work must be
constructed—that greatest and most difficult of all undertakings—the
civilization of the world.
The progress of civilization depends upon geographical position. The
surface of the earth presents certain facilities and obstacles to
general access; those points that are easily attainable must always
enjoy a superior civilization to those that are remote from association
with the world.
We may thus assume that the advance of civilization is dependent upon
facility of transport. Countries naturally excluded from communication
may, through the ingenuity of man, be rendered accessible; the natural
productions of those lands may be transported to the seacoast in
exchange for foreign commodities; and commerce, thus instituted, becomes
the pioneer of civilization.
England, the great chief of the commercial world, possesses a power that
enforces a grave responsibility. She has the force to civilize. She is
the natural colonizer of the world. In the short space of three
centuries, America, sprung from her loins, has become a giant offspring,
a new era in the history of the human race, a new birth whose future
must be overwhelming. Of later date, and still more rapid in
development, Australia rises, a triumphant proof of England’s power to
rescue wild lands from barrenness; to wrest from utter savagedom those
mighty tracts of the earth’s
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