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of roasted and ground coriander-seed, half a teaspoonful of roasted
and ground cumin-seed, two or three bay-leaves, a few peppercorns,
four or five cloves, roasted and ground, four or five cardamoms,
roasted and ground, six small sticks of cinnamon, roasted and ground,
with half a cup of good vinegar, to two pounds of pork or beef or a
duck.
N.B.—The best vindaloo is that prepared with mustard oil.
61.—Beef Vindaloo
Cut up two pounds of fat beef into large squares, and steep them in
the vinegar, together with half a teaspoonful of salt and all the
ground condiments, from eighteen to twenty-four hours. Then warm the
ghee or lard and throw in the meat, together with the condiments and
vinegar in which it had been steeped, adding a few peppercorns and
bay-leaves, and allow to simmer gently over a slow fire for two hours,
or until the meat is perfectly tender, and serve up hot.
62.—Pork Vindaloo
Cut up two pounds of fat pork into large squares, and curry according
to the directions given in the foregoing recipe, omitting the cloves,
cardamoms, and cinnamon.
63.—Duck Vindaloo
Take a young, full-grown, but tender duck; cut it up as for a curry,
and put it through the same course of pickling from eighteen to
twenty-four hours before being cooked.
64.—Pickled Vindaloo
(adapted as a Present to Friends at a Distance)
If the following instructions be carried out carefully, the vindaloo
will keep good for months, and, if required, may be sent as an
acceptable present to friends at home.
In order to keep it good sufficiently long to be sent home round the
Cape, select the fattest parts of pork; satisfy yourself that the meat
is fresh and sound, and that it has not been washed with water in the
butcher’s shop. Cut the meat into two-inch squares, wash thoroughly in
vinegar (no water), rub over with the following condiments, and then
steep them in really good English vinegar for twenty-four
hours:—Garlic bruised, not ground down, dry ginger powdered, turmeric
powdered, peppercorns roasted and powdered, coriander-seeds roasted
and powdered, cumin-seeds roasted and powdered, and dry salt.
Melt a large quantity of the best mustard oil in an earthen pot, and,
according to the quantity of meat, take additional condiments
mentioned above, but in the proportion given in recipe No. 61; grind
in vinegar, and fry in the oil; then put in the meat, and all the
vinegar, &c., in which it had been stepped, together with some more
salt, a little more vinegar, a few bay-leaves and peppercorns, and
allow to simmer until the meat is quite tender. Remove from the fire
and allow it to get quite cold; then put it into dry stone jars, with
patent screw tops, well filled with plenty of the oil in which the
vindaloo was cooked. Take care that all the meat is well covered over
with oil, which latter ought to be at least from two to three inches
above the meat in the jar. Screw down the lid, and cover it over with
a good sound bladder to render it perfectly airtight.
When required for use, take out only as much as will suffice, and
simply warm it in a little of its own gravy.
65.—Curry Paste
Is likewise adapted for sending as a present to friends at home. It is
made in the following manner:—Eight ounces of dhunnia, or
coriander-seed, roasted; one ounce of jeerah, or cumin-seed, roasted;
two ounces of huldee, or dry turmeric; two ounces of lal mirritch, dry
chilies; two ounces of kala mirritch, black pepper, roasted; two
ounces of rai, or mustard-seed; one ounce of soat, or dry ginger; one
ounce of lussan, or garlic; four ounces of nimmuck, salt; four ounces
of cheenee, or sugar; four ounces of chunna or gram dal without husk,
and roasted. The above ingredients, in the proportions given, to be
carefully pounded and ground down with the best English white wine
vinegar to the consistency of a thick jelly; then warm some good sweet
oil, and while bubbling fry in it the mixture until it is reduced to a
paste; let it cool, and then bottle it.
N.B.—Great care must be taken not to use any water in the
preparation, and mustard oil is better adapted than sweet oil for
frying the mixture in.
MADRAS MULLIGATAWNY CURRYAs this dish is usually served up and partaken of in the place of
ordinary soup, reference will be made to it hereafter under the head
of “Soups.”
Before proceeding to remark on fish, vegetable, and peas curries, a
few useful hints and suggestions may be offered on meat curries
generally.
In many families the remains of cold meat, if not required for other
purposes, are made into curry: cold roast or boiled mutton is
admirably adapted for the purpose; and in ninety-nine cases out of a
hundred consumers cannot tell the difference. If there be any
difference or advantage, it is decidedly in favour of the cold meat:
the roasting joints are always of a superior quality to meats sold
under the designation of “curry meats.”
The remains of cold roast beef make the best cofta curries, croquets,
&c., and if the beef be under-done no fresh beef will make a better
doopiaja.
Vegetables are sometimes put into gravy meat curries, never into
doopiajas; but, as a rule, the introduction of vegetable into any meat
curry is objectionable, from the fact that all vegetables in the
process of boiling or cooking throw out a liquid, some more and some
less: the potato throws out the least, but of a disagreeable
character. It is true potatoes may be boiled before being put into a
curry, but the piquancy and peculiarity of flavour looked for in a
curry is so palpably destroyed that the innovation may be discovered
with closed eyes. The introduction of vegetable into gravy fish
curries, however, is no innovation, as the condiments used for the one
answer for the other; both are cooked in oil, and the ginger omitted.
66.—Gravy Fish Curries
The condiments are as follows:—Mustard oil, one chittack or two
ounces; water, two cups; four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one
teaspoonful of ground turmeric, one teaspoonful of ground chilies, and
a quarter of a teaspoonful of garlic.
It will be noticed that mustard oil is used instead of ghee, and no
ginger.
Too much care cannot be observed in thoroughly cleaning, rubbing, and
washing the fish in salt and water before cooking it for the table.
Fish, if properly washed, when served up will never be offensive,
unless it be bad when purchased.
67.—Hilsa Fish Gravy Curry
The head and tail are thrown away, and the fish cut into slices of
rather more than half an inch thick; these should be washed in several
waters with salt, to rid them of all “besine,” before they are
curried.
The acid of tamarind is considered an improvement, or “amchoor,” which
is sliced green mangoe dried in salt.
68.—Beckty Fish Gravy Curry
Is sliced and washed in salt like the hilsa before being cooked. It is
not usual to put any acid in the beckty fish curry.
69.—Prawn Doopiaja
Take one chittack and a half of mustard oil, four teaspoonfuls of
ground onions, one teaspoonful of ground turmeric, one teaspoonful of
ground chilies, a quarter of a teaspoonful of garlic, twelve curry
onions cut lengthways, each into six or eight slices, one cupful of
water, and twelve large prawns.
Clean and thoroughly wash the prawns, rejecting the heads, or taking
only their substance pounded and squeezed out with unroasted
coriander-seed, and after parboiling the prawns make the doopiaja in
all respects according to the ordinary mode.
70.—Sliced Hilsa Fish Fried in Curry Condiments
Take two teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful of ground
chilies, two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a teaspoonful of ground
turmeric, a quarter of a teaspoonful of ground garlic, and one
chittack of mustard oil.
After slicing a hilsa in the manner directed for a curry, and having
thoroughly cleaned and washed it with salt, rub into the slices all
the ground condiments and the remaining salt, and allow them to remain
for at least an hour. Warm the oil, and fry the slices of fish of a
very light and bright brown. Serve up hot.
71.—Sliced Beckty Fish Fried in Curry Condiments
Slice, wash, and fry exactly as directed above. Fish served up in this
manner is well suited to some European tastes, and makes an agreeable
change to the ordinary mode of frying fish for breakfast.
72.—Egg Curry
Take six or eight eggs, boil hard, shell, cut into halves, and set
them aside; take ghee, ground condiments, and sliced fried onions, in
all respects the same as for a chicken doopiaja, and observe precisely
the same method of cooking, keeping in mind the fact that, the eggs
being already cooked or boiled, a smaller quantity of water and a
shorter time to simmer will suffice.
73.—Egg Curry with Green Peas
This is a favourite curry with some families in winter, when the
English green peas are procurable. The method of preparing it is
exactly the same as recipe No. 71, allowing the curry to simmer until
the peas are quite tender.
74.—Egg Curry, with Chunna Ka Dal
Parboil and dal, say half a cupful; curry the dal first; when about
nearly cooked, throw in the hard-boiled eggs, and finish the simmering
immediately the dal is soft or tender.
CHAHKEESChahkee is a term applied to vegetable curries, some of which are
deservedly popular, and one in particular, which many families have
daily during the season the vegetables are procurable, and yet never
tire of, viz.—
75.—Seam, Potato, and Peas Chahkee
Take twenty seams, four new potatoes, and a quarter of a seer of green
peas; divide each seam into three pieces, and throw into a bowl of
water; divide each potato into four pieces, and throw into water;
shell the peas, wash all thoroughly, put into a colander to drain, and
cook with the following condiments:—One chittack and a half of
mustard oil, four teaspoonfuls of ground onions, one teaspoonful of
ground chilies, half a teaspoonful of ground turmeric, a quarter of a
teaspoonful of ground garlic, one teaspoonful and a half of salt, and
one cupful of water. Warm the oil, let it bubble well, and fry the
ground condiments; when these are quite brown put in the vegetables
and salt; let the whole fry, stirring it well; then add the water, and
allow it to simmer over a slow fire until the vegetables are quite
tender.
N.B.—A cauliflower may be added if required for a change.
76.—Pulwal, Potatoes, and Torrie
Clean as much of the above three kinds of vegetables as will overfill
a vegetable-dish, and make the chahkee in all respects as the
foregoing.
77.—Red Pumpkin and Tamarind
A quarter of a red pumpkin and the pulp of two or three tamarinds will
be enough. Dissolve the pulp of the tamarind in the water, and put it
into the curry after the pumpkin has been fried.
78.—White Pumpkin and Tamarind
Chahkee it in the same way as the red pumpkin.
79.—White Pumpkin, Plain, Cut Small
It is not necessary to give any further instructions than those
already given.
80.—Tomato with Tamarind
Take twenty tomatoes and the pulp of two or three tamarinds, and
chahkee as directed for red pumpkin.
81.—Tomato, Plain
Chahkee twenty tomatoes according to instructions given for other
chahkees.
N.B.—There is a fresh green herb called soa mattee, which is
sometimes put into fish, vegetable, and other
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