Manners and Social Usages by Mrs John M. E. W. Sherwood (great book club books TXT) đź“–
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the lady, “but it is very bright overhead.” “I am not going that
way,” replied the gentleman.
A gentleman should not be urged to stay when he calls. He has
generally but five minutes in which to express a desire that old
and pleasant memories shall be continued, that new and cordial
friendships shall be formed, and after that compliment, which
every wall-bred man pays a lady, “How remarkably well you are
looking to-day!” he wishes to be off.
In France it is the custom for a gentleman to wear a dress-coat
when calling on a great public functionary on New-Year’s day, but
it is not so in America. Here he should, wear the dress in which
he would make an ordinary morning visit. When he enters a room he
should not remove his gloves, nor should he say, as he greets his
hostess, “Excuse my glove.” He should take her gloved hand in his
and give it a cordial pressure, according to our pleasant American
fashion. When leaving, the ceremony is very brief—simply,
“Good-morning,” or “Good-evening,” as the case may be.
It is proper for gentlemen to call late in the evening of
New-Year’s day, and calls are made during the ensuing evenings by
people who are otherwise occupied in the daytime. If the family
are at dinner, or the lady is fatigued with the day’s duties, the
servant must say at the door that Mrs._____ desires to be excused.
He must not present the card to her, and thus oblige her to send
to her visitor a message which might be taken as a personal
affront. But she must have the servant instructed to refuse all at
certain hours; then none can be offended.
Many ladies in New York are no longer “at home” on New-Year’s day;
and when this is the case a basket is tied at the door to receive
cards. They do this because so many gentlemen have given up the
custom of calling that it seems to be dying out, and all their
preparations for a reception become a hollow mockery. How many
weary women have sat with novel in hand and luncheon-table spread,
waiting for the callers who did not come! The practice of sending
cards to gentlemen, stating that a lady would be at home on
New-Year’s day, has also very much gone out of fashion, owing to
the fact that gentlemen frequently did not respond to them.
It is, however, proper that a married lady returning to her home
after a long absence in Europe, or one who has changed her
residence, or who is living at a hotel or boarding-house (or who
is visiting friends), should send her card to those gentlemen whom
she wishes to receive. It must be remembered that many gentlemen,
generally those no longer young, still like very much the fashion
of visiting on New-Year’s day, and go to see as many people as
they can in a brief winter’s sunshine. These gentlemen deplore the
basket at the door, and the decadence of the old custom in New
York. Family friends and old friends, those whom they never see at
any other time, are to be seen—or they should be seen, so these
old friends think—on New-Year’s day.
A personal call is more agreeable than a card. Let a gentleman
call, and in person, or take no notice of the day. So say the most
trustworthy authorities, and their opinion has an excellent
foundation of common-sense.
Could we only go back to the old Dutch town where the custom
started, where all animosities were healed, all offences
forgotten, on New-Year’s day, when the good Dutch housewives made
their own cakes and spiced the loving-cup, when all the women
stayed at home to receive and all the men called, what a different
New-Year’s day we should enjoy in New York. Nowadays, two or three
visitors arrive before the hostess is ready to receive them; then
one comes after she has appeared, vanishes, and she remains alone
for two hours; then forty come. She remembers none of their names,
and has no rational or profitable conversation with any of them.
But for the abusers of New-Year’s day, the pretenders who, with no
right to call, come in under cover of the general hospitality of
the season—the bores, who on this day, as on all days, are only
tiresome—we have no salve, no patent cure. A hostess must receive
them with the utmost suavity, and be as amiable and agreeable as
possible.
New-Year’s day is a very brilliant one at Washington. All the
world calls on the President at twelve o’clock; the diplomats in
full dress, officers of the army and navy in full uniform, and the
other people grandly attired. Later, the heads of departments,
cabinet ministers, judges, etc., receive the lesser lights of
society.
In Paris the same etiquette is observed, and every clerk calls on
his chief.
In a small city or village etiquette manages itself, and ladies
have only to let it be known that they will be at home, with hot
coffee and oysters, to receive the most agreeable kind of
callers—those who come because they really wish to pay a visit,
to express goodwill, and to ask for that expression of friendship
which our reserved Anglo-Saxon natures are so prone to withhold.
In New York a few years ago the temperance people made a great
onslaught on ladies who invited young men to drink on New-Year’s
day. It was said to lead to much disorder and intemperance; and
so, from fear of causing one’s brother to sin, many have banished
the familiar punch-bowl. In a number of well-known houses in New
York no luncheon is offered, and a cup of bouillon or coffee and a
sandwich is the usual refreshment in the richest and most stylish
houses. It will be seen, therefore, that it is a day of largest
liberty. There are no longer any sumptuary laws; but it is
impossible to say why ladies of the highest fashion in New York do
not still make it a gala-day. The multiplicity of other
entertainments, the unseen yet all-powerful influence of fashion,
these things mould the world insensibly. Yet in a thousand homes,
thousands of cordial hands will be extended on the great First of
January, and to all of them we wish a Happy New Year.
CHAPTER XXVII.
MATIN�ES AND SOIR�ES.
A matin�e in America means an afternoon performance at the theatre
of a play or opera. In Europe it has a wider significance, any
social gathering before dinner in France being called a matin�e,
as any party after dinner is called a soir�e.
The improper application of another foreign word was strikingly
manifested in the old fashion of calling the President’s evening
receptions levees. The term “levee,” as originally used, meant
literally a king’s getting up. When he arose, and while he was
dressing, such of his courtiers as were privileged to approach him
at this hour gathered in an anteroom-waiting to assist at his
toilet, to wish him good morning, or perhaps prefer a request. In
time this morning gathering grew to be an important court
ceremonial, and some one ignorant of the meaning of the word named
President Jackson’s evening receptions “the President’s levees.”
So with the word matin�e. First used to indicate a day reception
at court, it has now grown to mean a day performance at a theatre.
Sometimes a lady, bolder than her neighbors, issues an invitation
for “a matin�e dansante,” or “a matin�e musicale,” but this
descriptive style is not common.
There are many advantages in a morning party. It affords to ladies
who do not go to evening receptions the pleasure of meeting
informally, and is also a well-chosen occasion for introducing a
new pianist or singer.
For a busy woman of fashion nothing can be more conveniently timed
than a matin�e, which begins at two and ends at four or half
past. It does not interfere with a five-o’clock tea or a drive in
the park, nor unfit her for a dinner or an evening entertainment.
Two o’clock is also a very good hour for a large and informal
general lunch, if a lady wishes to avoid the expense, formality,
and trouble of a “sit-down” lunch.
While the busy ladies can go to a matin�e, the busy gentleman
cannot; and as men of leisure in America are few, a morning
entertainment at a theatre or in society is almost always an
assemblage of women. To avoid this inequality of sex, many ladies
have their matin�es on some one of the national
holidays—Washington’s Birthday, Thanksgiving, or Decoration-day.
On these occasions a matin�e, even in busy New York, is well
attended by gentlemen.
When, as sometimes happens, a prince, a duke, an archbishop, an
author of celebrity, a Tom Hughes, a Lord Houghton, a Dean
Stanley, or some descendant of our French allies at Yorktown,
comes on a visit to our country, one of the most satisfactory
forms of entertainment that we can offer to him is a morning
reception. At an informal matin�e we may bring to meet him such
authors, artists, clergymen, lawyers, editors, statesmen, rich and
public-spirited citizens, and beautiful and cultivated women of
society, as we may be fortunate enough to know.
The primary business of society is to bring together the various
elements of which it is made up—its strongest motive should be to
lighten up the momentous business of life by an easy and friendly
intercourse and interchange of ideas.
But if we hope to bring about us men of mind and distinction, our
object must be not only to be amused but to amuse.
To persuade those elderly men who are maintaining the great
American name at its present high place in the Pantheon of nations
to spend a couple of hours at a matin�e, we must offer some
tempting bait as an equivalent. A lady who entertained Dean
Stanley said that she particularly enjoyed her own matin�e given
for him, because through his name she for the first time induced
the distinguished clergy of New York to come to her house.
Such men are not tempted by the frivolities of a fashionable
social life that lives by its vanity, its excitement, its rivalry
and flirtation. Not that all fashionable society is open to such
reproach, but its tendency is to lightness and emptiness; and we
rarely find really valuable men who seek it. Therefore a lady who
would make her house attractive to the best society must offer it
something higher than that to which we may give the generic title
fashion. Dress, music, dancing, supper, are delightful
accessories-they are ornaments and stimulants, not requisites. For
a good society we need men and women who are “good company,” as
they say in England—men and women who can talk. Nor is the
advantage all on one side. The free play of brain, taste, and
feeling is a most important refreshment to a man who works hard,
whether in the pulpit or in Wall Street, in the editorial chair or
at the dull grind of authorship. The painter should wash his
brushes and strive for some intercourse of abiding value with
those whose lives differ from his own. The woman who works should
also look upon the divertissements of society as needed
recreation, fruitful, may be, of the best culture.
On the other hand, no society is perfect without the elements of
beauty, grace, taste, refinement, and luxury. We must bring all
these varied potentialities together if we would have a real and
living social life. For that brilliant thing that we call society
is a finely-woven fabric of threads of different sizes and colors
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