Seasoning of Wood by Joseph Bernard Wagner (urban books to read .txt) 📖

temperatures, however, reduce these qualities, but nothing short of a coaling heat robs wood of the capacity to shrink and swell.

Rapidly dried in a kiln, the wood of oak and other hardwoods "case-harden," that is, the outer part dries and shrinks before the interior has a chance to do the same, and thus forms a firm shell or case of shrunken, commonly checked wood around the interior. This shell does not prevent the interior from drying, but when this drying occurs the interior is commonly checked along the medullary rays, commonly called "honeycombing" or "hollow-horning." In practice this occurrence can be prevented by steaming or sweating the wood in the kiln, and still better by drying the wood in the open air or in a shed before placing in the kiln. Since only the first shrinkage is apt to check the wood, any kind of lumber which has once been air-dried (three to six months for one-inch stuff) may be subjected to kiln heat without any danger from this source.

Kept in a bent or warped condition during the first shrinkage, the wood retains the shape to which it has been bent and firmly opposes any attempt at subsequent straightening.

Sapwood, as a rule, shrinks more than heartwood of the same weight, but very heavy heartwood may shrink more than lighter sapwood. The amount of water in wood is no criterion of its shrinkage, since in wet wood most of the water is held in the cavities, where it has no effect on the volume.

The wood of pine, spruce, cypress, etc., with its very regular structure, dries and shrinks evenly, and suffers much less in seasoning than the wood of broad-leaved (hardwood) trees. Among the latter, oak is the most difficult to dry without injury.

Desiccating the air with certain chemicals will cause the wood to dry, but wood thus dried at 80 degrees Fahrenheit will still lose water in the kiln. Wood dried at 120 degrees Fahrenheit loses water still if dried at 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and this again will lose more water if the temperature be raised, so that absolutely dry wood cannot be obtained, and chemical destruction sets in before all the water is driven off.

On removal from the kiln, the dry wood at once takes up moisture from the air, even in the driest weather. At first the absorption is quite rapid; at the end of a week a short piece of pine, 11⁄2 inches thick, has regained two thirds of, and, in a few months, all the moisture which it had when air-dry, 8 to 10 per cent, and also its former dimensions. In thin boards all parts soon attain the same degree of dryness. In heavy timbers the interior remains more moist for many months, and even years, than the exterior parts. Finally an equilibrium is reached, and then only the outer parts change with the weather.

With kiln-dried woods all parts are equally dry, and when exposed, the moisture coming from the air must pass through the outer parts, and thus the order is reversed. Ordinary timber requires months before it is at its best. Kiln-dried timber, if properly handled, is prime at once.

Dry wood if soaked in water soon regains its original volume, and in the heartwood portion it may even surpass it; that is to say, swell to a larger dimension than it had when green. With the soaking it continues to increase in weight, the cell cavities filling with water, and if left many months all pieces sink. Yet after a year's immersion a piece of oak 2 by 2 inches and only 6 inches long still contains air; i.e., it has not taken up all the water it can. By rafting or prolonged immersion, wood loses some of its weight, soluble materials being leached out, but it is not impaired either as fuel or as building material. Immersion, and still more boiling and steaming, reduce the hygroscopicity of wood and therefore also the troublesome "working," or shrinking and swelling.

Exposure in dry air to a temperature of 300 degrees Fahrenheit for a short time reduces but does not destroy the hygroscopicity, and with it the tendency to shrink and swell. A piece of red oak which has been subjected to a temperature of over 300 degrees Fahrenheit still swells in hot water and shrinks in a dry kiln.

Expansion of Wood

It must not be forgotten that timber, in common with every other material, expands as well as contracts. If we extract the moisture from a piece of wood and so cause it to shrink, it may be swelled to its original volume by soaking it in water, but owing to the protection given to most timber in dwelling-houses it is not much affected by wet or damp weather. The shrinkage is more apparent, more lasting, and of more consequence to the architect, builder, or owner than the slight expansion which takes place, as, although the amount of moisture contained in wood varies with the climate conditions, the consequence of dampness or moisture on good timber used in houses only makes itself apparent by the occasional jamming of a door or window in wet or damp weather.

Considerable expansion, however, takes place in the wood-paving of streets, and when this form of paving was in its infancy much trouble occurred owing to all allowances not having been made for this contingency, the trouble being doubtless increased owing to the blocks not being properly seasoned; curbing was lifted or pushed out of line and gully grids were broken by this action. As a rule in street paving a space of one or two inches wide is now left next to the curb, which is filled with sand or some soft material, so that the blocks may expand longitudinally without injuring the contour or affecting the curbs. But even with this arrangement it is not at all unusual for an inch or more to have to be cut off paving blocks parallel to the channels some time after the paving has been laid, owing to the expansion of the wood exceeding the amounts allowed.

Considerable variation occurs in the expansion of wood blocks, and it is noticeable in the hardwoods as well as in the softwoods, and is often greater in the former than in the latter.

Expansion takes place in the direction of the length of the blocks as they are laid across the street, and causes no trouble in the other direction, the reason being that the lengthway of a block of wood is across the grain, of the timber, and it expands or contracts as a plank does. On one occasion, in a roadway forty feet wide, expansion occurred until it amounted to four inches on each side, or eight inches in all. This continual expansion and contraction is doubtless the cause of a considerable amount of wood street-paving bulging and becoming filled with ridges and depressions.

Elimination of Stain and Mildew

A great many manufacturers, and particularly those located in the Southern States, experience a great amount of difficulty in their timber becoming stained and mildewed. This is particularly true with gum wood, as it will frequently stain and mould in twenty-four hours, and they have experienced so much of this trouble that they have, in a great many instances, discontinued cutting it during the summer season.

If this matter were given proper attention they should be able to eliminate a great deal of this difficulty, as no doubt they will find after investigation that the mould has been caused by the stock being improperly piled to the weather.

Freshly sawn wood, placed in close piles during warm, damp weather in the months of July and August, presents especially favorable conditions for mould and stain. In all cases it is the moist condition and retarded drying of the wood which causes this. Therefore, any method which will provide for the rapid drying of the wood before or after piling will tend to prevent the difficulty, and the best method for eliminating mould is (1) to provide for as little delay as possible between the felling of the tree, and its manufacture into rough products before the sap has had an opportunity of becoming sour. This is especially necessary with trees felled from April to September, in the region north of the Gulf States, and from March to November in the latter, while the late fall and winter cutting should all be worked up by March or April. (2) The material should be piled to the weather immediately after being sawn or cut, and every precaution should be taken in piling to facilitate rapid drying, by keeping the piles or ricks up off the ground. (3) All weeds (and emphasis should be placed on the ALL) and other vegetation should be kept well clear of the piles, in order that the air may have a clear and unobstructed passage through and around the piles, and (4) the piles should be so constructed that each stick or piece will have as much air space about it as it is possible to give to it.

If the above instructions are properly carried out, there will be little or no difficulty experienced with mould appearing on the lumber.

SECTION IX DIFFICULTIES OF DRYING WOOD

Seasoning and kiln-drying is so important a process in the manufacture of woods that a need is keenly felt for fuller information regarding it, based upon scientific study of the behavior of various species at different mechanical temperatures and under different mechanical drying processes. The special precautions necessary to prevent loss of strength or distortion of shape render the drying of wood especially difficult.

All wood when undergoing a seasoning process, either natural (by air) or mechanical (by steam or heat in a dry kiln), checks or splits more or less. This is due to the uneven drying-out of the wood and the consequent strains exerted in opposite directions by the wood fibres in shrinking. This shrinkage, it has been proven, takes place both end-wise and across the grain of the wood. The old tradition that wood does not shrink end-wise has long since been shattered, and it has long been demonstrated that there is an end-wise shrinkage.

In some woods it is very light, while in others it is easily perceptible. It is claimed that the average end shrinkage, taking all the woods, is only about 11⁄2 per cent. This, however, probably has relation to the average shrinkage on ordinary lumber as it is used and cut and dried. Now if we depart from this and take veneer, or basket stock, or even stave bolts where they are boiled, causing swelling both end-wise and across the grain or in dimension, after they are thoroughly dried, there is considerably more evidence of end shrinkage. In other words, a slack barrel stave of elm, say, 28 or 30 inches in length, after being boiled might shrink as much in thoroughly drying-out as compared to its length when freshly cut, as a 12-foot elm board.

It is in cutting veneer that this end shrinkage becomes most readily apparent. In trimming with scoring knives it is done to exact measure, and where stock is cut to fit some specific place there has been observed a shrinkage on some of the softer woods, like cottonwood, amounting to fully 1⁄8 of an inch in 36 inches. And at times where drying has been thorough the writer has noted a shrinkage of 1⁄8 of an inch on an ordinary elm cabbage-crate strip 36 inches long, sawed from the log without boiling.

There are really no fixed rules of measurement or allowance, however, because the same piece of wood may vary under different conditions, and, again, the grain may cross a little or wind around the tree, and this of itself has a decided effect